Quote:
Originally Posted by Sieg
Tobin recommended Hawk HP Plus to me for street and track compromise. While I haven't had them on the track yet they work well on the street, they don't require preheating to stop at the first stop sign you come to, and they're pretty quite. As he warned they generate dust and will wear rotors........THEY GENERATE DUST! but visually the rotor wear doesn't appear extreme. Did I mention they generate dust? 
What's the old saying...........drive hard into the braking zone until you see God then stand on the brakes!
Hard to say from watching the video or feeling the chassis coming into and under braking but it looked like you were off the throttle well before the 500 mark and coasting into the braking zone. Start challenging yourself and the car on a corner that has no penalties if you go in too deep. Pick a throttle off point and brakes on point and gradually shorten them up until you get on the edge of not apexing the corner properly. Then you can confidently apply those references to most braking marker zones. Off-chambers, elevation changes, bumps/seams, brake over-heating, greasy tires, etc. need to be compensated for.
Once you learn your braking points around the track(s) you should see lap times improve. Also create drive-out reference markers past the apex point to aim the car at while rolling into the throttle they can serve as a point where you should be able to deliver maximum throttle for available traction.
You appear to have one of the toughest skills mastered......smooth. Most really fast drivers are really smooth. How they become really consistent is through establishing and adhering to personal reference points on the track.
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I used the Baer track system on my previous car, a '71 Camaro with modded LS3 and full-on Global West suspension. As I learned the track and accumulated seat time, I found that dedicated racing pads and high-temp racing fluid were a necessity for the Track system to be even marginally workable. There's just not a whole lot of pad and rotor there to handle the thermal load of repeatedly hauling down 3500+ lb from 130+ MPH. From experience, using street or hybrid pads, if you continue to push the braking zones to the limit as Sieg suggests you will eventually experience the thrill of full-on brake fade. Not recommended for the weak of heart. Or, come to think of it, for the normal of heart either.
After some experimentation, I eventually ended up using Carbotech race pads for the track, XP12 front compound and XP10 rear. Then I'd switch back to the Carbotech street pads for street use - the race pads squeak like the very devil. The Carbotech formulations use the same "deposit layer" for both street and race pads, meaning you don't have to have dedicated track rotors separately bedded. The only problem is, the C4 pads are not just small but also quite thin and thus wear out much faster than the bigger, thicker pads used by the more ambitious big brake packages. And race pads ain't cheap.
I think Sieg's recommendation of the Hawk HP plus is not a bad one for a learning track driver. Just be sensitive to when your pedal pressure seems unusually high, or your pedal height unusually low, and back off a bit for a lap or two. When that gets too annoying, time for the next step
