[CarlC]

I'm glad to help Bryan.

If you want to to a check of the wiring remove the circuit that connects the relay to the fuel pump. Take the output from the relay and run it to BAT + (assuming it's +). Do the same for the negative, or confirm that the chassis ground is secure and has direct contact with the chassis material, i.e. no paint, corrosion, etc. It won't hurt the pump to connect it like this with the engine not running. Connect everything with the engine off, then try running the car again. Use an in-line fuse to protect the circuit. The circuit should be capable of 20A in either case.

In the end you may well find out that the LS3 pump is a bit small for the build. The ZL1 has almost identical form, fit, and function to the LS3, the only difference being that the ZL1 won't compress quite as much as the LS3 due to the taller pump in the module reservoir. This is only a factor if you have retro-fitted an older Rick's, Rock Valley, or stock tank since these are only 7" tall overall. All of the tanks fabricated by Rick's or RV have sufficient mouting height to accomodate either fuel module.

The basics of the PWM kits will interchange among the LS3, ZL1, an CTS-V single fuel modules. The LS3 and ZL1 kits are identical. The CTS-V has a different short harness since the wiring for the plug on the fuel module hat is different. In other words, if you have a PWM kit for an LS3 and want to use a ZL1, just put the new pump in and go. When running twin fuel modules, like that in Mark Stielow's latest builds, it requires a different controller tune to get the system happy when running both pumps at the sam time, plus there is a lot more wiring to tie in the second module.