edit - took a break, stepped back from the tree to see the forest, and thought this thru a bit here. I think I have a simple plan to circumvent the funky taper stuff for my project. I can run a Coleman lower control arm with a monoball lower and standard Chrysler K727 1.5"/ft taper, ream the spindle lower to this taper (as this will not open up the bottom diameter which is good), then press out the C6 upper and make an adapter to fit in it for the same 1.5/ft taper, run a Speedway upper A arm assy which takes a standard K772 ball joint which I can get variations from Howe and others. The only "custom" part is the adapter for the spindle upper and reaming which is all pretty cake to redo if I mess up a corner. Whacka$$ taper should then be circumvented. Now to let this simmer a bit and make sure I didn't miss something."
Tim,
I am heading in kind-of the same direction. I tried the Howe stud they sent me for the C6 lower (part number 224240) in a Coleman spindle eye (part number 808-700, Chevrolet lower taper K-6141 (10 degrees)) and it fit perfectly. That means the stud IS 2 in./ft. taper. When I try the same stud in the spindle, it is slightly loose at the small end (which was indicated by my 1.84 in./ft. hole taper measurement earlier). I tried the Howe-recommended "magic marker" test and that also showed the stud to be tight at the big end and loose at the small end. The fix I am going to use is to run a 10 degree taper tool through the aluminum spindle taper to make it the same as the stud. It will take very little material removal, and the stud is long enough to pull that off without running out of stud and pushing the threads out the top of the hole. For the top end, I will use a Coleman CM-12-2 heavy duty rod end which is 3/4 in. thick and has a 1/2 in. hole. I will run the 2 in./ft. taper reamer through it to create a taper. I will then check that taper against the taper of the C6 upper ball joint. I have measured that stud a dozen times and I still get right at 2 in./ft. taper, but who knows? Anyway, if that taper works, all is good for what I have planned. If that doesn't work out, I will go the same approach as you -- ditch the C6 top ball joint and build a sleeve to accept a more conventional ball joint. What a PITA.
Pappy
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