Well Ron.....I pretty much just took a half inch off the coil springs
Which loaded the front tires more, helping to loosen the car up.
and then added a 1/2" taller ball joint.
And increased camber gain.
Once that work was complete I took it to the alignment shop and backed out static castor and camber. Ths car responded by feeling alot closer to neutral which leads me to think I was running too much castor my previous track day causing the car to jack loose.
Sure could be. What's your scrub radius?
In addition...my outside front tire temp differential went from 4* to 2* which is good.
Good.
The car began to get free at the end of my second session and I'm thinking it was due to front tire wear
Hmmm. Why would front tire wear make the car loose? Do you mean something different than you wrote?
and the RA-1's starting to come in and give me better grip. To counter the free condition I began to lower rear roll center one bolt at a time.
Excellent tuning move for a loose car. Can you lower your rear ride height any?
By the time I got to my 5th session I had dropped three bolt holes
How far apart are your panhard bar holes? What is the range of adjustment you have? What is your lowest height? ... highest height? ... And where did you end up?
and the front grip was not effected which tells me front grip was getting better and so was the rear.
Front grip wasn't affected by the panhard bar moving down. Maybe the track gripped up. The rear panhard bar moving down works the rear tires more. In fact, if you go too far, it will make the car push.
I ran my fastest lap time the 5th session.
Cool. The video looks to be of session #4 ... and the car stepped out just once, but looked a "tick skatey" just a few times. When you lowered the panhard bar again for session #5 ... did that provide enough rear grip where the car didn't step out at all? ... or was the car still "edgy"?
Thoughts?