You must be careful not to get your rod to far out of alignment, especially with a 7/8 Wilwood as the rod design is different than the 1". It will cause increased bore wear. It's doubtful it's causing your immediate issues but will cause long term problems.
When you bench bleed, you must make sure you have leak proof connections and your tubes are immersed in brake fluid. Otherwise, even the smallest leak will cause air to be trapped in the cylinder.
I have to agree with Chris and Tobin. I ran a 7/8 and 1" in my car. I always felt the 7/8 was a little to spongy for my taste. The 1" was great on the race track with some heat in the brakes. You had to treat the brake pedal like a red headed step child but the modulation was great. I learned to almost like them on the street. ha Where I agree with Tobin is on the 15/16th being the perfect size for a protouring car. When you want good drivability on the street and track with manual brakes, I think it's the right bore. Especially if you are running a realistic street compound. Clearly, your caliper bore sizes dictate but I've seen this discussion over and over in the protouring segment. Bottom line, if I wasn't a racer, I'd run a booster set up. Racer, a manual set up. As usual with protouring, you have to make a compromise.
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Todd
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