I had the same problem. I went through 3 Aeromotive pumps before adding a controller and making my vent 1/2". Very expensive lesson!!!
I think you mean 850 lb. per hour of fuel is what the fuel pump pushes. If you figure it up you will see how long it takes to recycle the whole tank to the engine and back. That will make it easier to understand the problem.
The pump pushes enough to support around 1000 hp. at WOT. You are pushing that much fuel at idle and while cruising and you engine needs 1/2 of that at WOT. That is your problem main problem along with the fuel line being too close to tthe header. You can insulate the line to help or move it.
The pump issue is going to need some work/money. If you have a pump that moves allot less fuel put it on until you get the turbos on. I assume your engine makes no more than 400fwhp now at WOT, so any oem external pump for an injected V8 car will work. I am sure there are many 4 or 6 cyl. also that will work.
Most aftermarket pumps are not continious duty pumps made for the street. They are made to run for short time frames on race cars. They build up heat in the fuel and make the pump cavitate which leads to more heat and vapor lock and/or a pump failure when used in a street car. The pump usually will let you know by getting louder and louder before quiting.
If you are going to drive your high hp turbo/blower/nitrous car on the street for any distance then look for a pump that can use a controller. I prefer to use oem stuff because it will last. Bosch makes some good pumps (I use two on my car with a controller) that are quite. I use an aeromotive controller. Weldon makes a controller but their fuel pumps are very loud.
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67 Chevy ll
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