Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick D
Sorry I just saw your response.
First let me start by saying when I talk about the process here this is the recommendation of three paint manufacturers and three OEM's on how to "repair" a car painted with a matte finish from the OE. This is not something that I'm just saying on a forum! This is in Hyundai's, BMW, and Mercedes Benz technical bulletin on how to properly repair a matte finish at the collision level shop.
I have to admit I've never seen the technical bulletin's from the OEM's, but we don't repair them in the plant like that. Not sure why they recommend that process, but I'm sure going to check it out. Thanks!!
If you have worked or painted at the OE level then you know that that is a different process altogether from what is done at the collision level?
No doubt about that....lol
In a lot of the matte clear coats that are out there today do not have the same UV blockers in them as your traditional "shiny" clear coat. Just the same as your lower cost or "cheap clear coats" do hold up as well because they have very little UV blockers in them to keep the cost down. I'm not saying all but some do not.
Not sure who is telling you this, but I just don't get the logic in this statement. You'd be surprised to here that UV blockers aren't changed that often between coatings, regular clear or matte clear.
As far as can you use just matte clear over base coat with out clear coating first yes you can I have said that already. What I was talking about is the "best" process for make it last and look the best for years to come.
I may spray a panel with and without reg clear underneath to see how much difference it makes. If it's not visually noticable, I may run in in the WOM for a week or so to see if weather conditions have an effect or not.
As far chemistry back nope not me, but I do work with some very smart guys in that department 
Now as far as technical I know a thing or two to get me enough trouble  |
Interesting thoughts in this thread. Thanks for sharing this process.