Quote:
Originally Posted by Forgeline Wheel
That's perfect! Thanks, Ron!
Here is the photo summary:
1. We start with the hub adapter. This sits on the shelf like this. But when you order, then we drill it and machine the center to match your existing hub. Shown here is the naked undrilled adapter, GT nut threaded onto the adapter spindle, flush-loc end cap, and the wrench for the end cap.
2. You'll bolt this adapter to your existing hub using our special funky drive pin lug nuts. Use your vehicle's original lug nut torque spec to bolt the adapter to your hub.
3. Then you grease the threads, wheel, and center lock nut.
4. Then your wheel slides over the adapter. The back of the wheel is machined with holes that match the drive pin lug nuts, so you'll rotate the wheel until the holes slip over the drive pins. This interface serves as the point of torque transfer.
5. Then screw on the main center lock nut. You have the choice between a hex nut or this gear-like GT nut. You'll torque it to 300 lb/ft . The kit includes the adapters for either nut, and it includes a 2 ft. breaker bar. (So we assume that a 150 lb. guy will put 100% of his weight on the bar.)
6. Finally the new Flush-Loc kit also includes a fine-threaded logo end cap. These thread into the inside of the hub adapter to A.) cover up the hole, B.) look pretty, and C.) serve as a lock nut to the main center lock nut.
|
Mark, do you take material off of the wheel center to make up for the adapter or do we just adjust the back space?