Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Cuda
Assuming... you are running about 34 total, that would be the equivalent of running 24 "initial", 10 "mechanical" advance, and an extra 10 "start retard". Not bad. Good performance strategy, and easier to start.
I know some folks that will weld slots in the distributor to be able to limit the mechanical to only 10 so they can run more initial. This makes it pretty easy doesn't it.
Do you have a MAP? Brave enough to try some "vacuum" advance?
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30 degrees total here. This is an SB2.2 headed engine. Highly efficient combustion chamber.
And I was just gonna run a locked out distributor with standard 6AL again like on my 377 before, but a friend talked about using one of these so I kinda decided to just try it. And you nailed the goal -- performance with easier start up.
No MAP and no bravery here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSLance
That should work...but did they teach you the trick of starting the curve at 0* and then bringing it down to 20* at 200 RPM or so? This gives the engine advance for initial starting and reduces the chance of the engine kicking back (or something like that). That probably comes into play more with a higher compression, larger cam engine than mine, but I put it in mine anyway.
Let us know when you fire yours off and get to play with it a bit.
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I should be firing it for first time in the car in the coming couple months.
Do you mean starter kickback? That is all the MSD tech mentioned being aware of. Here is his final comment on my baseline tune:
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Yes, that's near the money. You could play with the cranking timing up to the point of starter kickback: 10-15 degrees, and your idle timing: 12 - 20 degrees for idle quality.
Eg: you may end up at 13 cranking so it starts well, and 18 idling.