I'm only going to say a few words about motors... Cheap is cheap for a good reason and that "good" isn't good - or cheap - when you have issues. If you're going to drive the car on Sunday morning - and put very few miles on it - and never want to wing the SOB to the moon or go to the track. You MIGHT get away with cheap for awhile.
Just the rods in my race motor cost $2,300.... It's at WOT as much as humanely possible... the builder wants me to bring it back for a refresh every 40 hours of operation. That's a long time when you're doing 20 minute track sessions. The rebuild - think about this - just the rebuild was $14,000.... and people want to sell you a complete motor for 5 or 6 or 7,000....
My point?? This isn't a place to shop "money" - this is a place to do your homework based on what's right for you and your application and let the money be whatever that is. Cheap parts are cheap - the guy building your motor will then be inclined to say to himself "this is good enough" when machining and assembling... Cheap rods and cranks aren't going to be the same as good rods and cranks... I'm not saying you have to build a "race motor" -- but we all know the drill here. Everyone wants bragging rights with the dyno numbers. Then they DON'T want to pay what it costs to get those numbers to actually LAST for awhile... then they want to go out and run the poor little SOB like it is a "race" motor - because - after all - they have "X" horsepower.... Good luck with that. As an ex pyrotechnician -- I'd describe that as a very short fuse.
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