Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab
You can run pretty close to the outside. On the 69's there is a little bulge just above the lip. I've been a 1/2" from there and never rubbed. Since you have so much room inside go 1 1/4" if that is an inch you have going in that picture.
Most of the parts that rubbed was at the inner wheel tub.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab
Rolling dolly's suck. I use a plastic milk crate or 2x4 cribs to check tire fitments. Use a rubber mallet to adjust.
You have to be acurate. Also don't forget to subtract the rotor hub thickness. 1/4"-5/16" average rotor.
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Vince, thanks for responding. I thought I should start my own post even though I had asked you a question in someone else's "wheel & tire" post.
So your suggesting I go 1 1/4" from the outside fender lip to the tire rather than try and get closer to 1/2"? Is that due to the AirRide, especially when lowering completely and the bulge above the lip? If I raise the tire further into the wheel well maybe I can figure out about how far the highest it will tuck in order to clear everything.....
I'm already about 1 1/2" from the inner wheel tub to the tire with the tire where its at. I was just trying to figure out if I still had room to safely move them outward. I should probably take a picture looking down the sides and up to hopefully be able to compare with others who might have the same picture angle.
I agree the dolly idea didn't work well at all! I think your idea about using a milk crate would be much better. It's tough trying to keep the wheel parallel with the body especially when making adjustments. I wasn't sure how accurate you had to be when measuring which is why I was hoping to get some input. This was also the reason I chose to go with 11.5" wide wheels and 325mm tires rather than stuff as much as I could underneath. The 325's are HUGE so I don't think its going to take anything away from the look Im after.
As I mentioned before, I realize there is some adjustment to help center the rear end but I wasn't sure how much? Also knowing the tolerances on these older cars were NOT very close, I'm wondering if I go with weld on brackets for the suspension since i'm ordering a new rear end, what is the best way to determine where these should be mounted? I'm also wondering about your comment in the other thread about turning the offset lower links in order to gain clearance from the bottom mounting position of the shock. I'm close to the suspension mount on the driver side right now, but we haven't touched the mounts and I don't know if they are positioned there to center the stock rear end (i'm assuming they are but don't know for sure). Is it fairly easy to determine the bracket location if we were to turning the lower links around?
I'm looking at going with a floater rear end which is nice as I won't have to worry about rotor hub thickness. So if I can accurately get a WMS to WMS measurement I should be ready to order my rear end.
thanks for your help!