Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpock182
I think you hit the nail on the head. I shined a light into the fuel tank and see a lot of black small bits in the fuel. I'm assuming its rubber.
With this being said I would have to assume that the fuel pump has some junk clogged in it also.
I think my solution is to replace the manifold (to accommodate a single 4 barrel Holley) and buy a new carb. Also I am going to consider replacing the fuel pump and all of the fuel lines.
And thank you very much by the way! 
Now the question is if i should go ahead and go to EFI or replace all of these parts.  |
If you can actually SEE crap in the fuel tank - and after it sitting for two years it could be anything - moisture etc... and also the "new" fuels tend to not be so compatible with older rubber fuel lines and even the older rubber diaphragms in some fuel pumps. Several manufactures had issues with their good old METAL parts in carbs with the new fuels causing all manor of corrosion and stuff...
We don't know how old ANY of these parts are or their origins...
So --- if it was my car and I was having these issues and wanted to spend as little as I could - then I'd be removing and flushing the fuel tank... and replacing any of the "rubber" or flex lines with new - and make certain they are compatible with todays fuels (many people don't even know that you can buy different types of fuel line)... I'd replace or clean any filters.... I'd probably just go ahead and replace the fuel pump since you don't know what's inside of it... and I'd have the carb disassembled and inspected ------- or do as you have mentioned - replaced with a different manifold and a single carb. My guess is that you have a whole bunch of "fuel" related issues. The car should fire right off cold or otherwise with good fuel and properly tuned. That's not to say it will run or idle well "cold" -- that depends on the choke - etc if it even has one (doubtful).
RE: EFI conversion.
This would cost more... as you'd replace the tank with an in tank EFI electric fuel pump - it would require some wiring and relays etc.... you'd still want to replace any rubber hose in the fuel line... and you'd need to buy the type/style EFI intake and system that you'd wan to convert too. Then depending on whether or not you choose a "tunable" system - you'd have dyno and tuning expense... or choose a self tuning system - and skip that... but sounds like maybe you're the guy that would have all of this done at a shop. KaCHING....
The value would depend on how much you drive it - and whether or not you just want EFI. A carb or EFI are going to make the same power... The EFI is more tunable for certain things... and they generally start and run better "cold" or "hot"... but that, to me, is just nonsense if you don't drive the car that much... I have EFI on all my street rods... and a carb on the Mustang track car.... I can tell you that the Mustang lights off and runs within about half a revolution... and has no choke... so big deal - I feather the gas a little. It runs REALLY REALLY WELL... I have no intention of changing it over to EFI!
Depending on who's doing the work - the cleaning and changing a few hoses and the fuel pump - and inspecting or rebuilding the carbs - might be $2500 worth of labor and parts.... EFI is going to be 5 or 6 grand easily. Can be much more depending on what EFI you choose.... and then it's the "here we go, we might as well do....."
The main point is -- this bad boy should light off instantly.... Doesn't make any difference if it's a 540 -- or a 747.... a well tuned motor should fire with authority... if it doesn't - then you need to find out why. It's fuel / air / spark.... get 'em right or fight the fight.