Quote:
Originally Posted by Vega$69
You don't need any additional relays or diodes.
I've done 5 LS swaps on 1st Gens all with factory ign switches. 3 GM Perf Harness, 1 Psi and 1 reworked GM take out harness.
LS ECM
You need 12v switched power to the PSI fuse box.
The ECM is powered up with ign 12v. When you turn the key on the ignition and fuel pump relays close.
When you hit start the purple wire provides 12v to the starter.
From PSI
NO-START
1. Red Ignition Wire (From back of Fuse/Relay Center) has 12-volts with the Key in the ON
position and CRANKING position. This cannot be stressed enough, most NO-START
conditions can be traced to this wiring issue.
2. Check that 2 Large Ring Terminals by Crank Sensor are connected to CONSTANT POWER.
Batt. Battery Positive (2 LARGE RING TERMINALS COVERED IN BLACK HEAT
SHRINK), These are often mistaken for ground wires because of the black heat shrink
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You hit the nail on the head here! I just started mine for the first time this evening. Got everything wired up (harness and ECM from PSI as well). Wasn't getting juice to the fuel pump wire (87 slot on relay). Come to find out I had tied those two Battery Positive wires to the block as grounds not to the starter as required. Car starts and runs now but won't idle. Not hijacking this thread so I'll start my own but am subscribed to this one.