
11-14-2016, 12:21 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Folsom, CA
Posts: 2,422
Thanks: 45
Thanked 35 Times in 26 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by preston
Thanks we always appreciate the photos. Not sure about the olive green paint scheme though - c'mon this is pro-touring we need the undercarriage to be bondoed and painted in a flip flop chameleon color to be taken seriously
Far be it from me to second guess the Sutton-meister, but it sure surprises me not to see any triangulation on either of those watt links mount. I've seen his math on the loads but 1 lb of metal gussets would give me a lot of peace of mind.
Really looking forward to seeing the front clip put in place. What ride height are you targetting ? I saw some numbers on your drawing that looked very low. Is this a race car that can survive the street or do you plan on a fair amount of street driving ?
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Hey Preston,
I understand your concern. A lot of people subscribe to the "When in doubt, make it stout" philosophy. I don't ... because a pound here & pound there ... ends up making the car 200-400# heavier than they need to be. So I run calcs on everything & see what it needs. Then I make it as strong as it needs to be ... but no heavier than it needs to be.
FYI ...
* The upper watts link mount tube that sticks out of the axle housing tube on the driver side DOES have a 45° brace. You just can't see it in the photos.
* The lower watts link on the passenger side, bolts on behind the coil over shock. That mount is boxed & welded pretty well. It does flex about .040" so adding a piece of 7/8" x .058" tubing as an angle brace is doable if someone wants to do that.
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Ron Sutton Race Technology
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