[Ron Sutton]

Originally Posted by Build-It-Break-it

I've searched but couldn't find any information on how to set up or select proper jack bolt material (aluminum or steel).

Allstar performance makes jack bolts and for the aluminum jack bolts it states that they're to be used with soft springs and bar. But what's considered a soft spring big bar? When should you switch to a steel jack bolt instead of aluminum?

I've also heard that the jack bolts can't be adjusted with the full weight of the car on the jack bolts and you must raise the car to be able to adjust them? If binding will occur is they're any way to set them up so they won't bind?

I found a company called Bryans racing that also sells jack bolts that they say won't bind under load.

Any info is appreciated. I'm looking to install some on my speed tech torque arm suspension. Maybe Ron Sutton can shed some light on them?

Ahmad

Hi Ahmad,

Below I've attached page 21 out of my latest catalog that shows the jack bolt kits I offer. Here are the answers to your questions & other questions I get:
* I only use the aluminum jack bolt for a variety of reasons. The 1-1/8" round stock of 6061 aluminum is more than strong enough to handle any loads generated by modern race cars. If the threads get messed up on the steel jack bolts ... you'll kill the threads in the steel piece welded on your car. If the threads get buggered up on the aluminum jack bolt ... it is dispensable & easily replaced. In the worst case scenario, you can get the aluminum version out much easier than the steel versions.

* Always use some anti-seize on the threads.
* I do not know what you mean by "binding." There is no binding.
* While you can adjust the jack bolt with load on the car, the jack bolts will last longer if you take the most of load off with a jack before adjusting.

* I do not run jam nuts on mine. Some people do & want that extra confidence that the jack bolt won't turn. I've never had one turn. There is too much friction in the threads to turn easily.

* The key to using these is having a steel housing/collar you can weld to the chassis. I had mine made with an angle cut for style & visibility.

* I had laser cut mounts made to attach my collar to 1-3/4" round tubing at just about any angle from 65° to 90°. We use a lot of 85° & 90° mounts in the front. In the rear ... it's 90° minus whatever your shock angle is. So for 20° shock angle, you need 70° mounts.

* I offer them in 6" & 3" length jack bolts. The 6" version is from Allstar. The 3" version I have custom made for me. The 3" fit better in the front engine compartment & offer about 1-3/4" ride height adjustment which is more than plenty. We use 6" versions in the rear space permitting or 3" to be less obtrusive.

* We do use the Allstar shock head mount, but I throw away all their grade 5 hardware crap. My kits come with a chromoly tubular race bolt, aircraft grade nylock half height nut, aircraft washer & special length floating spacers I have made. The hardware we use costs more than the head itself, but I like using the very best.


Page 21 of my catalog below:
My entire Track Warrior catalog can be downloaded as a PDF HERE.