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Old 01-08-2017, 09:33 PM
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gerno gerno is offline
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Austin, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WSSix View Post
Keep at it, Steve. You're doing good work. Besides, I want to see what this thing looks like sitting on the ground when done
So do I. Overall it will like pretty much the same on the outside but at least the engine bay should look nicer...oh yea, and it should handle a bit better too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SSLance View Post
Thanks for posting the update, looks like you've been busy. I can't wait to see it back on the ground again as well.
Trying to find the time. There's never enough.

Quote:
Originally Posted by glassman View Post
Dang Steve, brave. Great stuff. What's next? How close u too final assembly?
Next is to mock it up in the car, cut the floors for clearance make new engine mounts to tuck the pan/exhaust better, rework the rear suspension, build a cage, remake clutch/brake pedals, smooth firewall and clean up the wiring....just a few things left...

Quote:
Originally Posted by waynieZ View Post
Nice work Steve .
Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by FETorino View Post
Very cool Steve. Maybe I will get a chance to see it in person next week.
I guess that depends how many beers are consumed....





Made more progress this weekend. Overall pretty happy but did find a few new issues to think about.

Pulled the frame off the table and tested engine fitment. I wanted to raise the engine slightly to and header and oil plan clearance to make sure nothing would hit anymore.

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Found 1 problem - The passenger side header tube is too close to the rear UCA bolt.

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I could move the engine back but will need to shorten the driveshaft. and may have interference issues elsewhere, need to look into it more. Good news is I'm already planning to redo the firewall and tunnel so this is a possible solution

I was hoping it would be easier to move it forward, unfortunately this caused an issue with clearance to the centerline. This is will not work

Another possible solution is to take 1/2" off the headers at the head flange. Overall should be fairly easy except I've never welded stainless and am concerned if my skills are ready for such a challenge.

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Final option is to sell my current headers and get a set of Ultimate Headers. Obvious problem here is $$$



Rather than make an impulse decision I wanted to go ahead and get the frame bolted up in the car to see if there were any other issues. Good news here is that other it bolted up. Only minor issue was the rear rails were a bit more spread than they were originally. I used a bar clamp to pull them back together and all seems well based on original alignment holes but I need to measure it for square.

I still need to recess the frame in the floors since I'm removing the body mounts to raise the frame 1/2" as directed by Sutton. Next week I hope to clean the pans with a wire wheel so I can mark and cut the floor sections contacting the frame

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