"are the Viking shocks the best option?"
I’ll just get it out of the way right now I ran Ridetech Engineering for a decade. I now handle special projects (OE, private label, military, etc), so I’m a bit biased. However, I’ve spent a good part of my life now working on different styles and brads of shock absorbers, so I know a little more than the average guy.
Personally I prefer a “true” coil over, control arms that were designed for and can handle the load and forces, and a monotobe shock absorber.
I believe shocks are one of those items where you purchase the best option you can afford. So, as is typically the case, you start with budget, then research within those constraints. . .or maybe just a bit outside them as well.
If you were talking about autocrossing and a bit more competition, then the search is a little easier as you compare "real" coil over kits to each other. The Viking front kit in question is a "hybrid" kit. It mounts the coil spring to the shock body at the bottom like a traditional coil over, but the spring sits in the OE pocket in the subframe like the original OE suspension. So not exactly a true coil over, though it does give you a few spring rate choices as well as the ability to alter the ride height.
Here's what I like about Viking:
-relatively inexpensive
-allows ride height changes
-decent twin tube shock absorber
-decent valve options for the twin tube
Here’s what I don’t like about Viking:
-lower mounting creates stress on the OE control arm which can result in failure of the arm
-hybrid mounting style creates additional side load on the shock
-it’s still a twin tube (I prefer monotube)
-poly mounts can create noise and may fail prematurely
-limited spring rate options
For what you are doing the Vikings would likely be just fine. . .so long as the valving is correct and the control arm doesn’t fail. Get the valving off just slightly in a twin tube and the car rides rough (as the shock is providing too much compression force at low shaft speeds).
However, if the budget allows I would consider a little more complete front kit that addresses the issues listed above and provides geometry changes as well while you’re there.
The rear leafs can stay; just add the same brand shocks you added to the front. Will wheel hop be completely eliminated? Probably not. . .though it can be greatly reduced. You are still dealing with geometry and physics, you cannot get over that. Then again, you probably won’t notice it on a nearly 100% street cruiser.
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