Quote:
Originally Posted by dontlifttoshift
So, to make sure I have the flow path right.
Fresh air enters the passenger side valve cover through a small hole. Then it flows through the crankcase to the drivers side valve cover where it is connected to the air oil separator with a 3/8" hose and mounted below the height of the valve cover and then connected to the intake or carb baseplate with another 3/8" hose. Right?
In theory, the crankcase will have negative pressure at idle and cruise but I just don't see one 3/8" hose being enough ventilation at wfo. Crankcase pressure will go positive and it will try to push through the AOS, taking oil with it, and when that's not enough, gaskets will start to leak.
At least that's the way it looks from 500 miles away. I hope it works for you but I think you will want a 5/8" inlet/outlet on the passenger side.
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You are close except for one part. Should the blow by be more than the 3/8s line can handle from the driver side VC to can, it will then try to exit via the pass side breather as well. If I see sign of oil coming out the pass side breather, I'll up the size of the line from the driver side breather to the can. If you up the size on the pass side, that just makes an easy exit for the blow by air to go that way, which is not what you want.
David at Mighty Mouse says a 3/8s line is good for up to 600 HP generally, but every case is different depending on engine and other variables.
The main difference with his setup is his check valve in the can which takes the place of most PCV valves. It will NOT close off under WOT like most PCV do. This lets the manifold vacuum keep sucking on the crank case even under WOT and that keeps the air flowing in the pass side, out the driver side and the excess that doesn't make it out the check valve to the carb goes up out the breather on top of the can.