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Old 08-03-2017, 08:25 PM
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Che70velle Che70velle is offline
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I'd put the car on a lift and inspect very carefully my harness at the crank sensor, and surrounding area for heat related issues, cracking, etc.
This means probably pulling the starter to make sure you see everything.
That area down there is an extreme heat area due to headers being close to it all. Pay close attention to your pins on the connector. Don't be afraid to remove whatever covering you have on the harness down there, to get a real good look at the wiring. Get a friend to help you do a pin to pin continuity check of each conductor, from the connector at the crank sensor, to the ECM. It will be a lot of work, but you should take the time here to cross your t's, and dot your i's.

If that checks out ok, I'd start thinking about engine thrust clearance, and the possibility of possible crank walk, or the reluctor itself being improperly attached.
Doubtful, as I'm sure your running top shelf stuff with that build, but anything is possible. You mention that when you "unload" the engine, it "springs back to life", so reluctor wheel is a remote possibility...
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70 velle' on custom chassis w/custom RideTech coilovers, RED sleeved 434” with Mamo 265’s, F-body Magnum, 12 bolt 3:73, wilwood 6/4's, bla, bla, bla...build. thread https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=39631
New 434” engine build here https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ved-block.html

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My Chevelle is old school... It has a belt driven power steering pump.
They're 17's, but I keep em clean!
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