Quote:
Originally Posted by Che70velle
I'd put the car on a lift and inspect very carefully my harness at the crank sensor, and surrounding area for heat related issues, cracking, etc.
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Thank you. We have done this, and we (eventually) went so far as to completely replace the harness with a new one. The car has not had any modifications relating to exhaust or the passenger side of the engine compartment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Che70velle
This means probably pulling the starter to make sure you see everything.
That area down there is an extreme heat area due to headers being close to it all. Pay close attention to your pins on the connector. Don't be afraid to remove whatever covering you have on the harness down there, to get a real good look at the wiring. Get a friend to help you do a pin to pin continuity check of each conductor, from the connector at the crank sensor, to the ECM. It will be a lot of work, but you should take the time here to cross your t's, and dot your i's.
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Good idea, every one of them. I wish I could say we hadn't done this, yet, so we'd have something more to do! It's all very frustrating. We have a lift, and have pulled the starter, including dropping the oil pan, to inspect the reluctor wheel. It's intact and within tolerance, according to Holley. We have checked each PIN and they are all fully intact. We have even wiggled all the wires with the car idling and it nothing acts up - it just runs. As I stated earlier, we replaced the entire harness, after first just replacing the crank sensor wire with a factory replacement from GM.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Che70velle
If that checks out ok, I'd start thinking about engine thrust clearance, and the possibility of possible crank walk, or the reluctor itself being improperly attached.
Doubtful, as I'm sure your running top shelf stuff with that build, but anything is possible. You mention that when you "unload" the engine, it "springs back to life", so reluctor wheel is a remote possibility...
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The thrust clearances are OK, the bearings are like new, and the reluctor wheel is properly attached. It's a Callies Dragonslayer crank with Callies rods and a stock LS1 24 tooth reluctor wheel attached.
The unload part is weird. When it's not quite fully warm, but almost fully warm, it only acts up when under moderate/hard(ish) acceleration. Let me explain what I mean by hard(ish) acceleration: I can't give it full throttle on the street because it makes too much power for the rear tires to handle. I can give it up to about 60% throttle depending on my current speed before it starts spinning.
As it warms up more, you don't have to depress the accelerator pedal to get it to act up. It starts cutting out while you're just cruising along at a steady speed and RPM. It "hiccups", for lack of a better word.
We spoke with a couple more GM technicians, today, and were told to swap out the crank sensor with yet another new one, and see if that helps. One tech told us he has had to go through "several" sensors before he found one that worked properly. I haven't heard yet from my shop, but I'm hoping they made some breakthrough, today. I have heard that my shop has followed all the troubleshooting avenues recommended by the pros and my hope, here, is that someone will come up with an idea that we haven't tried, yet.
Thank you for your time in replying! It's much appreciated.