[Fair]

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The upper curved section of the flare was cut from steel made from transfers from the cardboard templates. These sections were then rolled and reformed in the English Wheel (above left) and the edges that meet the wheel arch were rolled in the bead roller (above right) and formed further in the shrinker stretcher (not shown).



These horizontal flare sections were fitted to the framework of the flare and fender but went back into the English Wheel a few times to be fitted.



Initially these horizontal sections were made from one piece of sheet - which was a very long, multi-curved panel. These were later were re-made in 3 pieces, to get a better curved fit. The rear section was templated with blue tape (see above left) and you can see the seams in the top/middle and at the rear third (see above right).



To create a gap at the door opening there was a "flat" section that was welded to the middle of the curve on the front flare. Finally a vertical panel tied that "flat" upper section section into the rear landing pad. This vertical panel has a curve that mimics the stock fender shape, just moved outward five inches. The total flare width at the curve is 8.25" - its pretty massive.



You can see the large vent opening at the rear of this panel which will be used to evacuate the wheel well. There are all sorts of curved and formed edges on this panel to give it strength, cleaner airflow and better looks.
The look we were going for was sort of a modified/curvier DTM flare. The entire structure shown above is attached to the fender, which can be removed as a unit.



The 3 layers of now cut-apart steel for the rear fender structure were hammered into place, cleared of paint and undercoating, then carefully stitch welded together via a MIG. There's no way to get to all of the factory coating on the inside sections of the sheet metal but a MIG can power through this stuff better than a TIG. Once both rear fenders were cut and welded, the areas were primed with self etching primer (needs to have "zinc" somewhere in the name) and the car was reset at ride height. It looks ugly but THAT is what needs to be done under any unibody car BEFORE you start a proper rear flare job.

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