Sorry for the oversized image from Hot Rod, I tried to get it smaller but no luck.
This solved the oil delivery problems and has generated ~75psi on start up and falls down to mid to high 20's hot. I did have to have an Al welder weld a piece of bar stock across the lower opening of the timing cover since the 14 bolt oil pan that the block uses is flat across the nose vs. the 20 bolt oil pan the cover is designed to work with is pointed so it would have leaked like a sieve. I think I also had to have a small bit of overlap on the side of the cover welded up so it wouldn't leak past the gasket that didn't quite overlap the hole. I've not had any oil leak problems from the pump, housing, or the line systems once I got rid of the oil cooler. The oil cooler proved to be more trouble than it was worth both plumbing and leaks wise so I eliminated it.
The problem I solved initially by using a cut down 300 V8 pan was oil capacity on the motor. The 300 was offered in an X-frame for 1964 which made it a hard pan to find but since a V6 is just 3/4 a V8 of whatever generation it overlapped with, it sorta bolts right on. I took the pan, cut the front two cylinders worth of pan out and welded the nose back on. The pan warped a bit when I did this and it sat the engine farther forward like I mentioned but it fit. I had to get it working since I was about to move from TN to CO (car kept the nailhead for the move to TN from OH) so I worked late at night to get it functional though it was barely able to make it on and off of a transporter for the trip.
Once I got to CO I used the V8 pan for awhile while I tracked down other problems and once I got it running decently I took the chance to swap from the SP400 (switch pitch 400) I was using before to getting the 4L80E installed and working. This meant it was time to permanently solve the oil pan and compressor issues and scoot that engine back. I've already covered the compressor solution. The oil pan I decided to cut the bottom out of a stock pan and weld up my own sump. I started by making the sump out of paper and folding it up and fitting it in the car and testing the steering and such to see if it cleared. I then bent it up using a combination of my hand brake, bending pliers, and even pieces of angle iron clamped to the section and the flange hammered over the top of it. I was again rushing to beat a move, this time to DC, so not a lot of pictures. I didn't have time to deal with seam leaks so I just coated all the seams with JB weld, lightly sanded the worst of the blobs off and painted it. No leaks! I did try to make a trapdoor sump but it didn't fit in the limited space between the centerlink and the cross member so I just kept the kick outs. At some point I'll pull the engine again to fix a persistent rear main seal drip and when I do, I'll add trap doors to the kickouts so oil doesn't slosh and get stuck in there. Right now the engine is as far back as it will fit with the 4L80E tailshaft and cooler fittings being the limiting factors for scooting it back any farther.
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