Picture of the brake and clutch pedals. I had to drill a few holes to improve the looks and decrease the weight.
The clutch pedal required some changes . I raised the clutch pick-up point higher to better align with the clutch master cylinder this caused me to remove part of the clutch stop arm. I cut back the area to reduce the thickness to allow the yoke to go around then beefed up the welds. I use Wilwood yokes for the brake and clutch as they are aluminum and just work well.
I am using a compact 3/4” Wilwood clutch master 260-13619. It is setup for a 3/8-24 Banjo fitting.
I am going manual brakes and would normally use a Wilwood master cylinder for the brakes. I have used them in the past and my only complaint is the lid. I guess it’s a pet peeve, but I don’t like to use tools to remove a lid to check the fluid level. The mounting location is very close to the left valve cover so I researched an alternative.
I ended up using Dorman M39736 that was used on 87-95’ Dodge and Chrysler vehicles. It has the 7/8” bore size I wanted, its compact and aluminum. The side benefit is its cheap ($39.00) and readily available. The hole spacing is just a little tighter than GM, but its Easy to open up a bit to fit. I used a universal pushrod from Wilwood. I know the risk is low but I always think about what could happen if the rod came out of the master cylinder. I weld a washer to the rod and then drill and tap the back of the master cylinder to accept a washer that has a hole smaller than the washer I welded on the rod. No chance of it coming out!
I’m using a Wilwood proportioning valve and I had to cut the mounting bracket and extend it some to fit.