[Hydratech®]

Curious, you went through the trouble of yanking the inner fender well out so as to rework the brake lines. Is there any particular reason why you didn't take the opportunity to ditch the non adjustable OE block style proportioning valve and install a knob or lever type of inline proportioning valve to allow full adjustment of your front to rear brake bias?

With any modified vehicle, it is critically important to be able to adjust your front to rear bias to insure proper braking actions, regardless of whether it is a disc / drum or disc / disc system. Even changes in tires, springs, shocks, and suspension require retuning the brake bias to achieve safe, full, well rounded, thoroughly tested braking performance. As with most muscle cars, there is typically a sizeable increase of the amount of rubber in the rear, where you now have much more traction to work with. Since there is more traction in the rear, you can usually up tune the amount of rear braking activity. If you have too much front brake activity and not enough rear brake activity, the front wheels will lock before the rear brakes come up to pressure resulting in a loss of ability to steer the vehicle. Conversely, over active rear braking will cause the tail end of the vehicle to come around on you during hard braking. The installation of a hydroboost system, especially along with upscale front brakes, can produce such incredible amounts of braking power that chassis weight shift during harsh stops brings a complete change to the vehicle's proportioning needs. Most all adjustable proportioning valves are capable of dialing back up to 57% of rear brake activity, or adjust all the way up to 100% full pressure to the rear brakes. Note that all scenarios, regardless of the type of proportioning, always allow full power to the front brakes.

Leaving a block style combination / proportioning valve in place means that you have to take what you get for results, whether they happen to be in the ball park or not. This to me is like the installation of a carburetor and / or fuel injection system, along with a distributor that has zero adjustment, and then hoping the engine runs right. I can't imagine anybody accepting that, yet so many people do about the same thing by not introducing an adjustable brake proportioning valve into their modified vehicles. Will it stop? Of course. But will it stop safely and predictably in the shortest possible distance from speed? Maybe you will get lucky to find the preset proportioning is in the basic ball park. If not, you may have to yank that fender well back out and rework the brake lines again to make the change to an adjustable arrangement. If you do end up having to do that, at least it will also look considerably cleaner with that block removed from under the master cylinder.

Again, just curious, as it struck me odd to see you go through all the trouble of reworking the brake lines, yet leaving the block in place.