Quote:
Originally Posted by jarhead
Paul,
I have been using electrolysis for 10 years or so, started on old Ford tractors at first. I live in northern Colorado so i don't have to deal with much humidity.
After i pull the part out of the electrolysis tank i power wash it and then spray it with Klean strip concrete and metal prep. I don't know if there is a problem with automotive paint adhering, it works with tractor paint. I wipe it down with lacquer thinner before priming. The paint on my 42 Ford tractor never peeled or lifted. I'll find out on my Torino i guess
You can buy Klean Strip at big box stores, i get it at HomeDepot.
Joe
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I have had really good results with sheet metal using this product. I have parts that have been treated with this product and left otherwise bare for years barely showing surface rust. I’ve included some before/after pictures, smaller parts were left to soak. For larger pieces I found the key to be agitation with scuff pads or a wire brush while keeping it damp using a spray bottle. The bed of my 51 is still bare years later.
For me, hydrochloric aka muriatic acid was far too aggressive and I had the same flash rust problems you’re describing. I also had concerns after doing research and reading about the potential for cracking due hydrogen embrittlement. I would personally not feel comfortable experimenting with cylinder heads, blocks etc. that I planned to use without getting input from someone that truly understands the metallurgy.