Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown353
Make sure you have adequate driveshaft clearance to the tunnel with the driveline / u-joint angles properly set and the suspension at full bump travel. It would suck to get the car painted and start assembling and then find you have a clearance problem.
It's probably been 15 years now, but I had to slice out and raise the tunnel on my car from the firewall all the way to under the rear seat to have proper u-joint working angles and good driveshaft clearance at full bump travel, plus a bit more clearance for safety at my low ride height. I know Roadster Shop sets their frames up for low ride heights so it might be an issue on your car as well.
Didn't help I have a 4" driveshaft and was shooting for the absolute minimum working angles on both u-joints (about 0.7 degrees, just enough angle so the needles would spin to avoid flat spotting)-- that meant the transmission tailshaft had to go quite high and also had to angle the rear end "nose up" quite a bit.
Of course, with single and double CV driveshafts now being available you have a potential workaround if you need a little more driveshaft clearance and don't want to cut the entire tunnel out-- you can run increased (and mismatched!) working angles compared to standard u-joints and not have any vibration concerns.
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I know I should do it, but was hoping I could get away without it lol. Roadster Shop does it on all their A bodies. I checked full droop and it clears but it's close. That was with stock height body mounts, RS gives you 1/2 height mounts.
I think painter Jim has a "guy" who can do this for me.