View Single Post
  #8  
Old 08-16-2020, 09:33 AM
rustomatic rustomatic is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: ATL
Posts: 746
Thanks: 11
Thanked 57 Times in 35 Posts
Default

There are many problems with the logic here. One is that you might be confusing a rear sway bar setup for a drag car with one that is for a regular car or one that corners. The motivations are quite different. A drag bar would be like putting your rear wheels on plastic trays . . .

Generally, from a handling perspective, most of the talk you've seen that is against a rear bar relates to leaf spring setups. The idea is that the action is redundant, given the leverage forces being applied between the axle, the body, and the springs. The sway bar just becomes kind of a redundant spring, and it will generally just add oversteer (which isn't always bad).

Linkage (three, four, five) setups will generally have rear sway bars. Modern independent setups will have rear sway bars. The factories are careful to balance spring rates between the bars and the coils, however, so as not to create an oversprung setup.

I'm not an expert, so I'll have my glass of shutup juice now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kmelander View Post
Rear sway bars seem to be somewhat rejected by the majority of people I’ve interacted with on this site which seems plausible to me. If memory serves, good front bars are necessary, too much in the rear, and the car suffers, in corners. Straight line work, and it’s a different game, if you are struggling to put the power down and go straight. What’s interesting is how prolific they are on race cars, at least pictures I’ve seen of race cars. The guy that welded up the housing ends on my rear axle seemed to think I would never twist a 1” cromo bar and heat treating was a waste. His gig was drag, and he has many years of experience, so he said. My control arms are quite long so that minimizes the effect as well. I fabricated mine to avoid the $400+ price tag on a modular system. At this point, I’m just going to finish welding it up, hook it up and see how it works. Worst case, I hate it or twist it (hopefully that’s worst case) and it gets removed or replaced. At least I have the provision for it built in to my set-up. In time (a while out) I’ll update this post to let everyone know where it went, and how it worked. If I had to make a prediction, it will be disconnected on the street and for road courses and possibly hooked up for any 1/8 mile work, just to see if it makes a difference. My car isn’t going to be a monster so there’s a good chance it’s going to be insignificant either way. It would be cool to put a GoPro under there with one of the links disconnected to see what kind of input it would be getting.

Thanks for all the input.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply With Quote