A photoshop from a fellow board member at p-t.. wheels are a little big. they will also have a gun metal color on the center.
7/07
am definatly working with the side body line if I stay with the 2 tone. lettering would go on the bottome where teh panels concave in just about the rocker panels. I have decised to go with the house of kolors goldmone pearl which has noce effects in the sun and still looks good without direct lighting. many pearls dont look good or have no effect without sunlight light.
Parts update
I have decided to pruchase a watts link from Fays 2
http://www.fays2.net if I decide to run a 9". I have beening working with some fabrication and suspension people to arrive at an acceptable Watts link set up for the 2nd gens with a 9" but without making looked rigged or cause some outher aspect of the suspension to 'fight' itself, this setup looks good. and for the june special price, it is not too bad. If I wind up not using a 9" ( saving 1500 all said and done including cost of redoing the 10 bolt) and say with my current 10 bolt, I can use this on other t/a's for R & D puposes.
i scored a set of C5 calipers and brakets off erpae for slightly over 200 shipped. c5, c6 and c5 zo6 all use the same caliper with the exception of the zo6 being red. I will do mine in silver or black to keep the stealth look. the remainder of the brake system will come from tobin at kore3
http://www.kore3.com/
in the meantime, its rebuilding the rear and engine in my 79.
thanks again for the kind comments and thoughts.
8/07
Been a bit since I last updated this. Since the last post here is a tid bit on what all has happened and been accomplished.
All body work is completed on the car and was shot in a sealer. House of Kolors does not make the slime green sealer any more do to regulations ( damn environmentalist) so we had to use what they now make and use a gray sealer on top of this in order to use less paint. the gray sealer will be applied after the red sealer is wet sanded at 400. The underside will be shot in gold, subframe fitted and weld prior to the body being painted. I have to decide whether or not I want to put a roll bar in it to comply with certain racing regulations. most like not to comply w/ SCCA as that requires and entire cage. Mainly looking at 4 point like the Year One bandit car. have to check measurements I took for compliance. Hopefully I will be able to do that and compy with SCCA club or vintage racing and open road races such as silver state.
I have picked up some items such as KRE heads, cam, and a nice Aluminum radiator to keep this sukka cool. Engine is being line bored for new 4 bolt caps. A set of C5 calipers to halt this heavy mass as well. without further ado here are some pics of my red car.
While this is being done, I have installed a new 400 in my 79 so I have a car to cruise around town and have fun. thought about taking it to the nats but 3.23 for 600miles one way would be a lot of gas at 12 MPG
12/07
Wanted to update this for a while, the stars in the universe just haven’t lined up for me. As of this point, assembly is taking place starting with the suspension and then the engine and mechanical components and plumbing. The bottom of the car is painted and looks nice. All that time rubbing and scraping the underside has paid off. Too bad this area will only be seen when on a lift. While this all looks nice, some odd issue have come up, the LCA by Global West did not fit, they were off by ¼”. We resolved this by having, instead of ¼” thick thrust washers on the sides of the bushings, 1/8” washers on the outsides and 3/8” washers on the inside. This keeps the geometry in the intended locations. Global West was great working this problem out and shipped the required thrust washers to me within a few days. While there prices maybe slightly higher compared to other similar parts, their customer service is top notch. Another issue I had was the top of the coil over shocks hit on the subframe. Aldan Eagle is correcting this situation by providing me with different shock top and corresponding shorter spring. They picked up the shocks and I am waiting for the news ones. Better they fix it as compressing 650# springs wouldn’t be the easiest of tasks. Again, another stand up company and American made to boot. Other issues include finding bushings to fit vse leaf springs and sway bars which are long out of production. Prothane has a set that will work and are on their way.
I received front and rear brake setup from Kore3. This stuff is car part porn if it ever existed. Even my local machinist was in awe at the quality of the parts. Fit is dead on and all parts are cadmium or zinc coated to prevent rust. Every nut, bolt, washer, ect is included in the kit and will work with any of the corvette brakes from C5 and C6, C6 Z51 and Z06 as long as the caliper assy. matches that of the rotor. Excellent work from Tobin (owner of Kore3)
C5/6 brake interchange
All C5 and base C6 brakes are the same period just caliper color changes for Z06
C6 Z51 brake option will use above calipers , but reuires different caliper brackets
C6 Z06 is all together different. Rotors, pads, calipers and brackets are all different than above.
While suspension issue are being resolved, I cleaned up the chambers in the KRE heads and port match the intake to the heads. A lot of material must be removed from a RPM intake to match the ports of these heads. Air flow shouldn’t be a problem. I have been working on adapting a hydrobooster from an astro van to the car. I basically have to cut down the bracket on the stock booster and lengthen the rod on the hydroboost unit. I will probably have 1 or 2 iterations of the bracket before I am happy with it. I figure if all else fails; I can always call Paul at Hydrotech and get on of his units. Engine build will start this week.
w/o further ado, some pics.