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07-22-2012, 06:16 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Myrtle Beach SC
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Hi Ned, I set my driveline angle 1 deg down and set my pinion angle at 1 nose up. This gives me a level drive shaft and keeps the exhast from pointing towards the ground. https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=30781
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08-30-2012, 11:51 AM
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Any updates on this?
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04-09-2013, 02:24 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Manteca, CA
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Wow its been a long time since I did any updates..... The car is plugging away as I get time.
First on order was to get the rear suspension all figured out....When Tim altered the rear Air Ride stuff to get the car to sit lower it made it look bad ass, but completely destroyed all the geometry...... the UCA and LCA were like 10 degrees going up to the rear at ride height, and the pinion gain was ridiculous. I had planned on changing the rear end/LCA bracket anyway since I hate the big bulky u-bolt set-up, so this was the time....
This is how the LCA was sitting at ride height...not going to work....
So the best way I could figure was to take the front mount and put it on top of the crossbar....which in order to do I had to cut out some of the floor...
Which got me a lot closer to where I needed to be..... I then made new axle brackets to raise the mount point on the axle tube, so I had 1-2 degrees down in the front..... I didn't take pix of that....
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04-09-2013, 02:34 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Manteca, CA
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This is the "before" stock Air Ride set-up before we altered anything..
I had Paul Horton at www.welderseries.com make me some new LCA brackets that no only got rid of the u-bolts, but allowed me to drop the axle LCA mount point so that it was about 1 degree down in the back ( the pix is with the car at full extended height, so that's not the angle at ride height...)....plus add some holes for adjustments. I had Leonard over at Dominator Street Rods weld on the brackets for me
All this was after messing with the pinion/working angles for weeks and weeks. Once I got that where I wanted, I had the axle brackets welded on for good. Then I ordered up a driveshaft from www.driveshaftshop.com. I had them build one with the front CV joint...that way I have more flexibility with the front working angle...I just need to work with the rear working angle
Its rated to over 800 HP, so I'm not worried about it breaking anytime soon...
Last edited by DRJDVM's '69; 04-09-2013 at 03:28 PM.
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04-09-2013, 02:42 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Manteca, CA
Posts: 1,299
Thanks: 2
Thanked 48 Times in 26 Posts
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Last edited by DRJDVM's '69; 04-09-2013 at 03:30 PM.
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04-09-2013, 02:47 PM
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Lateral-g Supporting Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
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Hi Ned
Glad to see your still working on it.
? Did you shorten the upper arm at all
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04-09-2013, 02:48 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Manteca, CA
Posts: 1,299
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Last edited by DRJDVM's '69; 04-09-2013 at 03:31 PM.
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04-09-2013, 03:05 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Manteca, CA
Posts: 1,299
Thanks: 2
Thanked 48 Times in 26 Posts
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04-09-2013, 03:17 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Manteca, CA
Posts: 1,299
Thanks: 2
Thanked 48 Times in 26 Posts
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I had to make some room for the diff pumpkin in the trunk so I made it high enough I could run some lines etc up in the pocket. It worked out perfect to mount up my Finch vent system in the trunk and run my diff vent and fuel tank vent up there. Plenty of clearance even with the car dumped.
I wasn't 100% satisfied with the exhaust Rob and I built....the tailpipe angle to the lower valance was not quite right and the tips didn't line up square..so I re-did the tailpipes to get the angle right and get allitle more clearance to the air bags..and added another v-band clamp to make the pieces smaller
After seeing some of the issue with the frame cracking when the G-link etc was welded to the frame instead of bolted in, I got freaked out since I fully welded in my AirBar. So I made some plates to mount to the outside of the frame, and drilled 2 holes through the plate and the bracket on the inside of the frame. I'm going to run 2 through frame bolts to help spread the load on the frame and act as a safety factor just in case the frame cracks or tears.. probably paranoid, but I can sleep better knowing its beefed up alittle more
last of the rust repair....I cut these pieces out when I had the car blasted and never got around to filling them back in.. until now...
Last edited by DRJDVM's '69; 04-09-2013 at 03:34 PM.
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04-09-2013, 03:23 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Manteca, CA
Posts: 1,299
Thanks: 2
Thanked 48 Times in 26 Posts
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The car has been in bare metal for quite awhile now.... when I had it blasted I did epoxy it but with all the metal work 80% of the original epoxy is gone. So now that I'm finally winding down on the big metal work, I need to get it back in epoxy. So I prepped and shot the doors, front fenders and trunk lid.
So that's where it stands right now for the most part.
Right now I put the car back on the rotisserie and am going over all the welds and doing final grinding/dressing etc. I'm going to have Dominator weld on my brackets for the rear UCA front mounts (any high stress areas, I'm having the pros weld on...don't trust my own enough)....then I'm going to take it back to the blaster and have them "touch it up" by blasting all the underside, floor and any spots really difficult to get to (seams, welds etc) and then get it back into epoxy.
Then mock it all up again, and start my hard lines for brakes, fuel, brakes etc
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