Let talk trailers!

[GregWeld]

Anything less than 65' just won't be...... Okay just kidding.



A couple things to think about "in general" about a trailer.

Where you live and how nice your car is determines open or enclosed. In the NorthWET we need enclosed trailers.

Aluminum costs more - but you will probably either need an aluminum trailer or a new truck -- your choice.

Just because a truck is "rated" to pull "X" weight -- doesn't mean it will do so "well". Again -- depending on where you live. Hills and mountains need a truck with some grunt... FLATLANDERS can pull with a Volkswagon.

FANCY INTERIORS are a big money maker for the dealer - and a giant waste of money for the buyer. IT'S A TRAILER -- you load it -- close it up and park it. The car is the fancy part. So unless you just have to have a trailer with all the bells and whistles (they're nice - don't get me wrong - it's the way I buy stuff - but it IS NOT cost effective).

Side exit doors are fantastic.... the bigger the better IMHO (48")


24' foot for an ENCLOSED trailer ---- because with a trailer (enclosed) you want to take "stuff". So that gives you room for a rolling type toolbox to be bolted in -- or some cabinets for "stuff"... etc. Again - this depends on how you intend to use the trailer. I take longer trips - so want tools - tires - clothes - rags - spare stuff I will never need as long as I have the spare stuff.


A WINCH IS A MUST OWN ITEM for a trailer. Period. Car breaks -- winch it on -- a buddies car breaks - winch it on... loading and unloading the car -- WINCH IT ON AND OFF.... if you do that - then you don't really need an exit door... but they're nice to have. MAKE THE WINCH 'wireless remote control'..... that way you can steer the car from the bottom of the ramp and get 'er all lined up etc.


Trailers hold their value pretty well -- if they're taken care of. So buying a used one isn't a huge money saver - but there is no shortage of trailers - what there is is a huge difference in brand to brand and what you CAN spend on one. Super cheap poorly made and super expensive deluxe everything. It's your wallet. The cheap junk seems to get to the show just about the same as I do. Depends on how much you plan to use it. It's a value judgement and use issue.

[DOOM]

Greg I think post#2 was for you.

[Vegas69]

I pulled a 24' Haulmark enclosed with my Tundra which is supposed to be a 1500. Pulled it great up and down the large grades between here and Southern CA even in the Summer. Temp gauges never moved. You will need a brake controller.

I don't see the point of an open trailer unless you are going to local events. If you're not racing, you should be driving. Otherwise you need the weather break and security.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by DOOM

Greg I think post#2 was for you.

Oh I got that..... but we had fun didn't we!?!?

[Ketzer]

Originally Posted by DOOM

Greg I think post#2 was for you.

[GregWeld]

If you buy one with some cabinetry -- make sure they're DRAWERS.... And I personally found almost nothing useful with the overhead cabinets. Not much fit up there... The drawers held all manor of stuff.

I carried a very tiny air compressor -

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/THO...130829142210:s

because my 2000 watt Honda would not start the "pancake style" (the type framers use for nail guns) version I have... the start load was just too much for it. LIGHT IS THE NAME OF THE GAME HERE... you're having to carry and store this stuff.


The light little Honda 2000 was/is a gem. I can make a pot of coffee -- charge a battery operated tool - run a battery charger -- lights - etc. Used it all the time.

Speaking of lights --- you see trailers with the big built in Halogen lights on the sides... in 15 years I used mine ONCE! Seriously... they're never where you need them - unless you're a professional race team in the pits... Portable lighting (great flashlight) is far more useful. Or use the little Honda to fire up a drop light.


Go to PITPAL PRODUCTS.... and deck out your trailer with strap hangers - jack storage - and anything else that needs to be stored. I love this stuff!


http://www.pitpal.com


These folks CALL YOU AFTER THE SHIPMENT TO SEE IF YOU GOT EVERYTHING AND THAT EVERYTHING IS ALL RIGHT! Amazing.


And go to and watch the videos of how to do things right at at Mac's Custom Tie Downs!



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btRW...layer_embedded



I buy all my tie down stuff from them -- great products -- and the videos of how not to do things are most helpful.


http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com

[Ketzer]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

And go to and watch the videos of how to do things right at at Mac's Custom Tie Downs!

That's a good link GW, I'm going to buy a fresh set from them! Mine are getting a little old and frayed.

Questions on tying down that weren't exactly covered in that video,
Do you guys only tie to the suspension? or do you go to the frame and compress/preload the suspension? (I understood preloading and traveling that way to be very bad for the shocks?)

Do you x-over the straps to keep the car centered so it won't walk around in the trailer? (I don't always do it up front, but definitely in the rear because it seems to move around the most).


Jeff-


Jeff-

[DRJDVM's '69]

I bought a used 20 ft enclosed about 3 years ago...great investment. 24 ft would have been nice, but not required.

One other thing to consider that no one has mentions...where do you keep it? If you don't have a spot at home or a friend with land you can store it on, don't forget about the cost to have it at some storage facility. For awhile I had mine at a lot that charged $55/month for it to sit in an open fully paved lot. I didn't keep anything of value that could be hauled away in it, since a lot of these places have break ins.... So it was costing me $$ every month for it to just sit there...

My advice....go very basic and used, then add the little things yourself...winch is a must...and some storage but depends on what you are going to haul and do with it.....enclosed at a minimum of 20 ft, better if you can get 24...

Unless you are shooting for bragging rights, don't get all the fancy graphics, diamond plate, SS cabinets etc...... way better to use that $$ towards practical stuff

And don't scrimp on the tow vehicle...when it comes to towing "good enough" will come back and bite you in the ass...

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by Ketzer

That's a good link GW, I'm going to buy a fresh set from them! Mine are getting a little old and frayed.

Questions on tying down that weren't exactly covered in that video,
Do you guys only tie to the suspension? or do you go to the frame and compress/preload the suspension? (I understood preloading and traveling that way to be very bad for the shocks?)

Do you x-over the straps to keep the car centered so it won't walk around in the trailer? (I don't always do it up front, but definitely in the rear because it seems to move around the most).


Jeff-


Jeff-

Personally I use straps with D rings on both ends - run those THRU THE WHEELS --- and then strap to them. I only buy the "direct hook" straps so the jack handle is close to the tie down ring. My older straps that didn't have that direct hook -- they sell a conversion kit. Once you've used them - it's the only way to go! And thru the wheels (with a cover on the strap that they sell) is So FRIGGING EASY! I don't even have to lay down to do it! (not that kind of do it either you morons! LOL)


Otherwise I go over the axle or some part of the suspension... I NEVER go to the frame. The suspension will allow the car to float and bounce up and down and ride nice while keeping the car in place. Tie to the frame and hit a big bump and the car is jerking and yanking on the straps! That's a no no.

I never cross the straps unless that's the only way I have to --- they chafe on each other --- AND --- should one get loose or break - the other strap is then pulling the car to the side rather than straight back (or forward). The car is going to move FORWARD in breaking --- that's the big load.... so I want that tight as hell ---- and straight pull back to the floor tie downs.


I also put my cars in neutral so as not to be stressing the transmissions..... even thought they shouldn't be moving fore or aft -- you're pre-loading the parking pall or the gears when you're strapping them in.

[John510]

Thanks for the tips. I don't plan on getting a new truck so ill look for an aluminum trailer.