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  #91  
Old 03-05-2015, 11:02 AM
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Sieg Sieg is offline
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2 psi residual valve.

Do you have enough pressure going to them through the proportioning valve? Might dial it up and do some lockup testing.

Mine was lifting until I opened the prop valve more and then it started to pull the rear down slightly. Front to rear pad compounds are your other tuning tool. Run a caliper pressure calc to determine if you need different or matched pads front vs rear. I'm running a less aggressive pad in the rear to balance caliper force.

My visual impression was your rear brakes were on the smallish side, so I'm GUESSING the fronts may be overpowering them.

Are you running the factory delay valve? You could remove that, though mine seems to work fine with the delay valve.
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  #92  
Old 03-05-2015, 02:25 PM
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I have Wilwood 6 piston up front bp-20's and single piston out back
Cpp master with their proportioning valve.. we had to pull something
out to make it work for disc brakes... When I put the bp-20's out back
figured there was an issue... will try to replumb first but might just
put some 4 piston Wilwoods... was thinking the 6 pistons would go
to the back if I decide to go to 18" wheels.. Motor has been an issue
for a long time and that seems ok now so will move forward
Getting to some Falkins would also help but nothing in the rear 17" size

Thinking the Valve first then work my way down the road
It is evolving slowly

Bob
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  #93  
Old 03-05-2015, 02:46 PM
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I'm running Hawk HP+ up front and BP-20's in the rear. Try the valve first.
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  #94  
Old 03-05-2015, 02:56 PM
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Valve first is what I am thinking also

thanks

Bob
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  #95  
Old 03-05-2015, 08:05 PM
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Bob, were you really using your brakes out there, on the autocross, after the first turn? I hate that middle pedal . . .

It was fun hanging with you--if nothing else, your car will always look better than mine. I think people actually turn their cameras off when I run.

One day, when I grow up, maybe I'll be able to try out your neighborhood on the road course (we'll call this the Pantera level) . . .

Last edited by rustomatic; 03-05-2015 at 08:09 PM.
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  #96  
Old 03-05-2015, 09:46 PM
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I dunno Paul, I think patina is the the thing right now. No such thing as a "patina Pantera" though lol. I think you may be pleasantly surprised, that's my bet.....
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  #97  
Old 03-06-2015, 02:51 PM
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Paul,
Patina is in.. hell the Firebird paint job is 25 years old!!!
Your car really scoots on such little tires
I do ride the brakes alot when crossing.. trail brake the whole
thing.. going to fix them so they work a little better

I thought us coasting down the hill (pit racing and Bsing
was the best part

Just signed up for Good guys Pleasanton with the bird
and thinking of going to Vegas and running the track
this time as I think the straights are short enough for my gearing

Bob
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  #98  
Old 03-16-2015, 11:09 PM
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So my buddy Harry checked out the web for info
on my Right Stuff rear brakes. Turns out the e brakes
that are not hooked up actually adjust things. When I
changed pads that were thinner it made things worse

I moved the e brake lever a bunch of times and it tightened
things up but not all the way. Bleed things and then we had full
contact. Took it for a drive tonight and it is amazing what real
Brakes can do... Too bad I didn't have them in the stop box

Oh we'll off to the list he gave me. Taller ball joints. ... Same
As a raised spindle... Then change sway bar ends at the top
to a heim instead of rubber. Modifying my old sway bar to
fit the Speedtech lower arms

Getting a few sizes of bump stops also to play with

Bob
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  #99  
Old 03-17-2015, 09:21 PM
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Taller ball joints came today along
with a spare bronze gear. Still need to check
the old one.

Looks like I am going to cut off part of the sway
bar to make it stronger along with fixing the ends

Bob
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  #100  
Old 03-17-2015, 09:23 PM
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Forgot the picture
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