Norwood

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by Track Junky

That sucks!!

That's a very polite understatement.

[GregWeld]

Not sure how I missed upping my post count by adding major insults in this thread!

Too many trips lately -- I'm going to have to stay home and catch up!

Great story - nice strong head - with weak skin covering....




I need to get you those aluminum heads.

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Not sure how I missed upping my post count by adding major insults in this thread!

Too many trips lately -- I'm going to have to stay home and catch up!

Great story - nice strong head - with weak skin covering....




I need to get you those aluminum heads.

I was wondering...........your lack of insults was creating a little anxiety.

Next Thursday somewhere on I-5?

[Sieg]

Back to the puking shifter dilemma.

It's 5 a.m. and I just finished putting the car on stands and checking the oil level via the fill port. Checked for level, subframe was at 0* no oil weeping from fill port.

The shifter's shift rod mounts in the front position directly over the gear (aka oil slinger)


Here is the underside of the Hurst (L) and White Lightning (R)


So the transmission vent does vent based on my hillbilly pressure test, yet when I parked the car after the first test drive at took this picture 2-4 minutes after it was parked you can see the air bubble next to the shift rod pivot ball, watching it live the bubbles developed very slowly, like 2 in 5-10 seconds, so not a lot of pressure but there is pressure.

The Tremec vent line has a venting aluminum cap, I don't know if it's calibrated to control pressure. I do know with compressed air pressure applied to the case my guage peaked at about 2.5 psi.

Is the vent line getting oil slung into it an negating it's function?

Is the cap too restrictive?

Does the shifter need a baffle to protect it from oil sling?

Do these shifter designs need a seal?

[Track Junky]

Seems to me that the slinging oil is the culprit. Can you try moving the shifter to the rear location and drive it?

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by Track Junky

Seems to me that the slinging oil is the culprit. Can you try moving the shifter to the rear location and drive it?

Definitely an option. It's times like this that consoles are a PIA, at least the OEM design.

Probably not an option for GW unless he had someone in the back seat shifting for him.

[GregWeld]

Originally Posted by Sieg

I was wondering...........your lack of insults was creating a little anxiety.

Next Thursday somewhere on I-5?

That works!

[MarkM66]

Originally Posted by Sieg

During the pan and gasket swap I snapped a couple pics of the antique lower-end SBC. Nothing fancy, 010 block, balanced assembly, brazed pickup, 2.02 heads that casting #'s match up to 67 375hp Corvette, hydraulic cam has no ID on the front so I'm assuming GM?, Comp Cams Magnum rockers 1.5/1,6 ratio, Mallory Unilite distributor. I don't know what crank or pistons were used, based on traits I'm guessing 10:1 comp. Any insight based on observations would be appreciated. Trash talking is expected too.



I like seeing there was still hatch marks on the cylinder wall in this pic after 23 years.

Looks like a forged crank.

[Vegas69]

I still like some type of dense flexible product in the shift rod cavity that you can cut the dimensions of square the shifter rod passes through. If it was me, I'd put the stock shifter on it and be done with it.

[Matt@BOS]

I agree with what Todd said. Have ever used the stock one? I'm quite happy with mine but maybe I don't know what I'm missing out on (aside from bubbling fluid, of course)

Matt