63’ Chevy II Project “The Golden Girl”

[bkswede]

Originally Posted by 64G-lark

Thanks Brian I am going to run a LS3 intake and injectors as my engine is LS3 based. I am planning for a Holley Terminator Max ECU.

Makes sense... should’ve caught that when you noted the 4.125” stroke in your earlier post. The Terminator Max is a great ECU... really capable and affordable.


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[WSSix]

Yes, we do have a large Caffeine and Octane show every month just down the street from me. Covid hasn't really slowed it down. I'm not sure if that's a good thing or not, lol. I've been staying home typically. Let us know if you ever make it down for the show. Rustomatic(Paul) and Che70velle(Scott) are in the area, too.

[64G-lark]

Good to know Trey. I will have to check out sometime when I’m down that way.

The assembled front ready to go back in.



Some tape on the firewall for some protection along with some moving blankets on the engine. Don’t need paint scars at this point!





I coaxed my wife, Robin to come out and help me balance and line up everything for assembly.

[syborg tt]

What an inspiring thread. I love all the details that you are sharing. However, the parts in the dishwasher is definitely a “Win” for me.


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[214Chevy]

Very nice. I like everything you're doing. Keep up the good work.

[64G-lark]

Thanks Marty. I spent a few nights looking over your Camaro build. Awesome project and love your details. Especially the blue tape .

Thanks 214Chevy

[64G-lark]

Picture of the brake and clutch pedals. I had to drill a few holes to improve the looks and decrease the weight. The clutch pedal required some changes . I raised the clutch pick-up point higher to better align with the clutch master cylinder this caused me to remove part of the clutch stop arm. I cut back the area to reduce the thickness to allow the yoke to go around then beefed up the welds. I use Wilwood yokes for the brake and clutch as they are aluminum and just work well.





I am using a compact 3/4” Wilwood clutch master 260-13619. It is setup for a 3/8-24 Banjo fitting.

I am going manual brakes and would normally use a Wilwood master cylinder for the brakes. I have used them in the past and my only complaint is the lid. I guess it’s a pet peeve, but I don’t like to use tools to remove a lid to check the fluid level. The mounting location is very close to the left valve cover so I researched an alternative.
I ended up using Dorman M39736 that was used on 87-95’ Dodge and Chrysler vehicles. It has the 7/8” bore size I wanted, its compact and aluminum. The side benefit is its cheap ($39.00) and readily available. The hole spacing is just a little tighter than GM, but its Easy to open up a bit to fit. I used a universal pushrod from Wilwood. I know the risk is low but I always think about what could happen if the rod came out of the master cylinder. I weld a washer to the rod and then drill and tap the back of the master cylinder to accept a washer that has a hole smaller than the washer I welded on the rod. No chance of it coming out!







I’m using a Wilwood proportioning valve and I had to cut the mounting bracket and extend it some to fit.

[64G-lark]

New wheels arrived after a long wait to be made. Had to throw them on to see how they looked. Weld RT-S S77 18 x 9.5 front and 18 x 10 rear. Thanks to Randy Johnson at D & Z Customs.

[TomM]

Nice work...

Question...is there a reason for mounting the prop valve backwards?

T,

[64G-lark]

Thanks Tom, I would love to see the pictures in your build threads.

Good catch. I should have mentioned that earlier. Yes a couple reasons. The port configuration on the master cylinder is the main reason. The rear port of the master cylinder is for the front brakes. The other reasons are to make access to the adjuster knob easy, and I didn't like the brake light sender and wires sitting front and center.