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  #51  
Old 03-02-2011, 12:25 PM
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Todd, you've been dealing with this problem for what seems like forever. When I started having knock back issues this thread was a wealth of knowledge on the situation. I read this whole thing over carefully, and went back and forth on how I was going to try to address it. Having seen all of the work that you did to try and find an adequate solution, I decided to go with a floater. I wasn't sure whether or not it would be overkill. Yes, tapered bearings and a 1" master cylinder have worked, Bad Penny being an example, but I didn't want to run the risk of having it not work, leaving me having to put up with the problem, or throw more money at it.

From the four autocross runs I did before I had to retire my car, I can tell you I didn't have any problems with the floater under the car. Hopefully nothing pops up after more track miles! I know you're tired of spending money on the car, but IMO the presence of mind in knowing that you wouldn't have to screw around later would be worth the 1500-2000 for the floater.

... You probably didn't need my little testimonial though
Feel free to give me a call if you are seriously contemplating the change, or give the guys over at Wilwood and Speedway a call. They worked together every step of the way, and came up with a solution that was very reasonably priced considering I replaced everything except the third member.

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  #52  
Old 03-02-2011, 12:43 PM
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Matt, I appreciate your insight. I did speak with Dustin at Wilwood at the event and he mentioned they could adapt a floater to my caliper. Put some more miles on your set up so I know it's a sorted out fix.
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  #53  
Old 03-02-2011, 01:09 PM
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I drove my old 69 @ RTTC.. Here are the specs on te brake system that I set up 7 yrs ago..

12 bolt rear with stock c-clips
12 inch disc with bridgebolt Dynalites, 1.38 bores, 1/2 thick non-vented rotors
Front- bridgebolt Dynalites, 1.75 bores, 12 inch disc/.810 thick rotors
1.00 bore cast iron 69 Corvette Master cylinder.
I can't even remember what pads I put on it.. but I think they were the old tan pads.. I had brake fade on the first day .. but by the 2nd day pads were gripping & no brake fade.. but was using less brake as I got used to the car & the track..

Never experienced knock back issues!! but was only running 255-18 in the rear & 225-18 in the front..

Quick solution to your problem Todd.. Change to floating calipers in the rear!
Expensive solution.. Full blown floating rear end!!



Quote:
Originally Posted by Vegas69 View Post
Matt, I appreciate your insight. I did speak with Dustin at Wilwood at the event and he mentioned they could adapt a floater to my caliper. Put some more miles on your set up so I know it's a sorted out fix.
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  #54  
Old 03-02-2011, 01:30 PM
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Apples and oranges buddy...
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  #55  
Old 03-02-2011, 06:57 PM
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Todd, I forget to tell you I tried the floating caliper thing out. We put the brakes on at BOS, however, it was on the test drive immediately afterward that I got hit by the lady running the red light. so I couldn't tell you whether or not they solved the problem. The C6 Z51 brakes literally have maybe a mile on them. They're just sitting on a shelf full of parts right now. If you want to "try" them out I'll send them your way. If you put a track day on them and they don't work, just send them back, if you want to keep them then we can figure out a price. They are for a 9" though so you would need different retainers, but that is about it.

I'm not trying to sell you anything, just figured it would be a good opportunity to do some more informative trouble shooting to help everyone out that is currently building a car. Then again, if you don't feel like testing out another product, which may or may not solve the problem, I completely understand.

Matt
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  #56  
Old 03-02-2011, 07:39 PM
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Matt, you're the man. Let me think on that and I'll be in touch.
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  #57  
Old 03-02-2011, 08:45 PM
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Todd,
Just an observation, but it seems to me that you have spent a lot of time and effort patching the symptoms but you have not addressed the root cause. Here's what I suggest, loose the conventional axles and go with a NASCAR or SCORE Off-Road type floating hub. This will give you two taper bearings in place of the one you currently have and the axle no longer has to carry any weight it's only job is to transfer power. This company sells all the floating hub parts and kits you need to either convert an existing rear or a complete 9" floater housing.

http://9inchfloater.com/index.htm

Hope this helps!
Steve
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  #58  
Old 03-02-2011, 11:50 PM
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I agree that a single tapered bearing is not ideal and not engineered for this application at the end of the day. I'll be collecting info and making a decision on a direction soon.
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  #59  
Old 08-04-2011, 01:37 PM
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Just an update, Moser sells a complete 9" rear housing with floating hubs and axles in any length you specify for $879. Here is my rear end during installation.





Moser also sells floating hub kits that allow you to adapt floating hubs to your existing rear end housing for $450. Check out Moser's Circle Track Rear end section.
http://www.moserengineering.com/circ...and-parts.html

Speedway Engineering also supplies a lot of NASCAR teams with rearends and floating hubs parts.
http://www.1speedway.com/
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Last edited by TheJDMan; 08-04-2011 at 02:05 PM.
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  #60  
Old 10-04-2021, 07:09 AM
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Lots of good info here.

Did you get it all sorted?
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