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  #821  
Old 06-17-2020, 11:43 AM
will69camaro will69camaro is offline
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Update time:

We got some decent weather in Houston last week, temperature had fallen but more importantly as humidity was low. I took the opportunity to burn some vacation at work i have to kill by end of the month and move towards upgrading the car's fuel system a touch.

Pump as mentioned previously had arrived.
Details:
Ricks Custom Fuel hat
Twin Walbro 525 (Hellcats)
Spun aluminum fuel retention bucket.


Inside that is this: WIth the alternative that both my pumps feed through the "Primary" port on the top, as i wont have this module staged.


I proceeded to drain the 5ish, gal of fuel that was in the tank but putting my "drain hose" on the inline fuel filter, and pumped it into a spare gas can. Using holley efi and increasing pump prime time, this was pretty easy to do.

Next up was drop the tank!


I marked each location for what was primary and what was secondary pump location. This was driven off the fact i wanted to keep the "primary" as the one that feeds the flex fuel sensor, that's the only driving case, either could have been retained. Primary, as marked is the one on the right in the pic below (Driver's side of the car).


Next up was to pull both modules, one for replacement and one to replace the factory bypass valve (63-65psi) with the DeatschWerks 90psi relief valve.
Pump removed and separated from housing to access the relief valve.


Relief valve cage removed, and valve replaced.






From here that module went back in, and re-connected to the "corner pickups" that are part of the Ricks/Vaporworx system. These are EXCELLENT for corner fuel supply, sad i lose this on the secondary pump but shouldn't pose any problems.


At this point it's time to setup the second module. I loosened the screws for the spun housing and the fuel pumps and proceed to lower into the tank to ensure pump is "on bottom."


Lines installed to see what fittings i like best for the Feed (-10AN) and Return (-6AN).


Pumps wired with the pumps wired together. 8GA wire used for the pump feed as these two together as max capacity, draw significant amperage. And I always go overkill on this stuff...


Moving on from there is to mount he Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) that is setup as a safety bypass for the CTS-V pump. If i see a pressure spike, the hellcat pumps dont have an internal bypass, and the V bypass cant flow enough. This is a safety to ensure in that event, the V pump survives.
This looks like a good spot. By the Flex fuel sensor that the main pump feeds.


**** me, closer than i had anticipated. It would have been nicer to have a bit more room, but this is a set it and forget it type deal (i hope) so i'll suffer with the initial setup to have a clean configuration.


The lines are PTFE, so they're very still and a bit of a bear to work with.




Moving on to the feed and return lines to the tank.
As the saying goes, measure twice and cut once...Well i measured, 5 times, got "long" and "short" lengths that i felt would work for the feed and went for a mid point erring on the long side...Ended up Short....How TF.

PTFE is a mother ****er to work with as the bend radius is LARGE. I used the fittings that seemed appropriate (90deg for both -10AN and -6AN lines) and i'm not happy with either.


Shown above you can see the "ripple" in the coating as the line is short into the top of the FPR. This is unacceptable, so will be replaced. I have a 120deg fitting that I will try on the same line, prior to removing the line and checking the PTFE lining to see if it's distorted/torn/etc. I purchased additional line as well to ensure i can replace it if needed.

The return line isn't as bad, but a 120deg fitting will give a better departure for the return given it's above the rear housing to ensure no clashing will happen. i have measured and have assured myself that the shock will bottom out (bump stop) prior to contacting the line enough to cause damage to the line or the fitting. That said, that part is still pending completion, hopefully today when they all arrive.

Said **** it and went to finishing up the wiring. I'm adding a big fuse for the control of the system and the pumps, i have never been happy with the wiring to the module prior but it was "good enough." That's since changed in my philosophy and i'm trying to make it RIGHT, so at least this wont need changing when i do the car re-wire down the road.

I dont have a good photo on my PC of my old PWM fuel pump controller, but it looks like this:


Small and works to control dual CTS-V pumps, but doesn't have the thermal or amperage capacity to support the larger hellcat pumps.

Enter the new unit: This piece is significantly larger than the other, by about 3x the footprint but also about 2-3x as tall as well.




Tight squeese to get all the wiring in that box and still have room for the lid to close.


As shared previously Steve Meade Designs came through the nice ANL fuse holder. This will allow expansion in the future for not only 2 amps but potentially an onboard air system as well (if i see that as necessary).


Here it is in the trunk, where the old controller module was that has since been relocated. This position works for the sub box i have for the stereo later on down the road. Mind the dirty trunk, i wasn't in the detailing mood so it's a bit filthy.
What can be seen here is a 4Ga wire that goes to the distribution side of the fuse block, a 60 amp fuse between that and the power feed 8ga wire that goes to the controller.


Dont mind the bundle of red / white wires, that's the AC power and signal wires that will be hooked up and tidied up once the AC system is finished. They're out of the way for now.

What you can see on the right side of that screen are two wiring bulkheads. Each of these will be used as the feed for the big pumps. The red "positive" bulkhead is the PWM main power feed from the controller, and on the bottom connected to the 8GA wire to the pump itself. The black "ground" wire has multiple grounds for various sensors in the back, as well as the ground directly to the controller. There is a ground cable (2/0) that is from this directly to battery, and a 2/0 ground strap that goes to the frame now as well. Grounding has improved dramatically as part of this upgrade as well.


What is difficult to see in the photo, is directly between the battery tray and the ground bulkhead, there is a small pass through / grommet where my battery tender wire passes. Previously i had to pop the trunk to access this and it was annoying, now i can reach under car and grab the lead and connect it. I'm utilizing the former rear leave spring bushing spot to pass wires through and keep them orderly under the car.

I'll try to get some more pictures of the finished wiring under the car when i'm out there later finishing up this fuel system (lines) and setting the FPR.

To be continued!
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  #822  
Old 06-17-2020, 09:42 PM
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Thanks for all the detailed explanations and pics. Really helps me visualize what I will need to do in the future for mine, although, I will not be as extreme..lol
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  #823  
Old 06-18-2020, 01:12 PM
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Yes! Ditto the thanks for the details! Huge help.
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  #824  
Old 07-27-2020, 09:46 AM
will69camaro will69camaro is offline
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Well went to a private rental last Saturday. In hopes for a 9@150+ I decided to make some changes.

1)adjusted rear shocks for some more weight transfer.
2) replaced the wg spring with a little stiffer one. Boost solenoid having a hard time keeping up with duty cycle above 50%. Pulled the spring that made 7psi on gate out and saw it was a “5.6psi” spring. Put a 10psi spring in it and went about my way.

First pass:
Test the wg spring on gate and ensure the fuel system working. Roll it out slow. Get it in 3rd and lay into it. AFR looking good down the track, so I grabbed second. Ran 13.6@133.



Back to the pits and pull logs. Fuel working perfect. Made the expected 13psi on waste gate. All looks good.

Add duty cycle to it (30%) and go for another pass to see what that makes.

Second pass:
Take off easy again. Looking at logs shift out of first at 4500. Out of second at 5500. Then rev 3rd to 6800.

Car feels good and feels fast. Run a 10.5@147. Promising given the soft 1st and 2nd gear.





Go look at the log and see the car made 18psi in 2nd gear and peaked 21psi in 3rd and 4th after the shifts. But boost still falling back to 15-16 range.

I decide 150mph is very attainable. And it’s happening next pass.

Third pass:
I get greedy. Rev a little more but still soft 60ft. I’m running first out this time.

Grab second gear hard at 6800rpm and 20psi boost. Hard shift and a loud bang out back.



Doesn’t look good. Drove to end of track easy. Rear makes aloud pop when I turn off track. Go to pits and make some figure 8s in and out of load to try and test diff. Acting normally.

Fourth “Pass”:
I pull up again. Same tune. Ready to try again and stay in it. Proceed to burnout and hear a loud pop at the start. Can see me look to my friend on the side to see if he waves me off. He doesn’t.



As I’m at the line, some other friends ran up and got the track to stop me. Apparently more noise than just that pop that isn’t noticeable on camera. Day is done. Diff is done.

Car is up on blocks now and will have diff pulled this week. If it warrants it, I’ll take some pics along the way to show the damage.
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  #825  
Old 07-27-2020, 03:20 PM
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Sucks that the Diff is done, but this is how they tend to get faster. lol Glad to see you're out having fun with the car! That's what it's all about.

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  #826  
Old 07-27-2020, 04:22 PM
will69camaro will69camaro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiffav8 View Post
Sucks that the Diff is done, but this is how they tend to get faster. lol Glad to see you're out having fun with the car! That's what it's all about.

Yea absolutely, and it's fine. I got this diff second hand (new/unused but still not direct from DSE). I knew when i got it that the 31 spline setup i thought would be a limitation so have always taken it a bit easy on it. I got greedy as said and slammed 2nd gear.

Going back, depending on what broke, will change what i fix/repair.

If it's just the diff, I'll likely replace the eaton tru-trac with the wave trac. GearFX said that was a nicer piece and machined housing. Stronger AND a lifetime warranty according to Moser/Eaton.

That of course will retain the 31 spline axles, so it's days would still be limited.

Sadly the housing that I got, and maybe is standard still, is a 3.062" carrier bearing housing. Cant fit 35spline with that. So if i wanted to upgrade axles, it would be a new center section/third member.

Down the road this definitely will be the path forward, and I'll run a Strange S-trac which has a warranty and is no doubt the toughest torsion style diff. Only availble in 35 spline however for the 9".
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  #827  
Old 07-27-2020, 07:29 PM
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Nothing like beating it until it breaks...
It sounds great...


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  #828  
Old 11-10-2020, 06:53 PM
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Gonna push her at the next track outing?
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  #829  
Old 11-12-2020, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John II View Post
Gonna push her at the next track outing?
LOL!

Just got the thing back up and running. Sounding great on all 8 cylinders again!
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  #830  
Old 11-13-2020, 07:27 AM
will69camaro will69camaro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John II View Post
Gonna push her at the next track outing?
I’m just trying not to push it TO the next track outing.

I’ll be going to local quarter in a little over a week. As BigBronco said, maiden drive after new springs and rockers was last night and it seems to be back to 100%. I’ll drive it a little more this weekend to see.
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