New THREE gallon dry sump tank mounted..... and it’s mounted NOW behind the protection of a NEW front wheel tub.... You can only imagine the amount of track debris that was being thrown against the firewall — and anything back there....
Hard to see from this photo - but this is the new front tub looking back from the front of the car.... I’d be happy with that quality of fabrication on a fancy build!!!! Remember this is a race car - plain and simple.... I like their (SpeedTech) craftsmanship!!
Blake and I were just discussing the whole “PCV” system and vacuum pop off valves etc.... of course he has been in direct contact with A.R.E and Kurt Urban.... both of whom know their way around these systems.......
Had Sutton bothered to do this while building the car —- it might have saved me a few grand.... and even more important to me —- MY TIME.....
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The Following User Says Thank You to GregWeld For This Useful Post:
How you plumb the topend of the engine is really dependent on the scavenge ability of the pump and whether it can maintain vacuum on the crankcase when the engine is wound up. If you can't maintain vacuum when the engine is at max rpm you have to vent the crankcase pressure to somewhere or you're going to have blow-by issues.
I started out with a 3 stage Dailey that made vacuum at idle but with the 4.125 stroke crank I have it couldn't maintain vacuum when we revved it up. I added 2 more scavenge stages, I can now maintain 15" of vacuum at 8,000 rpm and picked up 20 hp. I initially ran it sealed but with street driving I started seeing moisture accumulation in the tank oil cap and the valve covers. I plumbed a -4 line from the drivers side valve cover to the top of the tank to turn the air over and cured the moisture issue.
What I have done with the 3 stage pumps is to run one -12 line from the valve cover to the top of the tank, you can run it to the tank breather but you'll just fill with oil quicker.
Blake and I were just discussing the whole “PCV” system and vacuum pop off valves etc.... of course he has been in direct contact with A.R.E and Kurt Urban.... both of whom know their way around these systems.......
Had Sutton bothered to do this while building the car —- it might have saved me a few grand.... and even more important to me —- MY TIME.....
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
Gdub I would get rid of that Y point by the "B" in your drawing and run each valve cover line separately to the tank, once you go through that Y it's only flowing what one line can flow.
Gdub I would get rid of that Y point by the "B" in your drawing and run each valve cover line separately to the tank, once you go through that Y it's only flowing what one line can flow.
I would put a pop off on the valve covers to the tank. Does the same thing, except allows the pump to pull a vacuum on the crankcase until it can't!
This can be plumbing inline to the tank from the valve covers:
It would really be awesome to see detailed photos of what you’re changing suspension wise, so that those of us who have the same suspension are able to see what you’ve come up with as a safe “repair” or change to the front lowers, 3 Link rear, etc. This build thread is sort of the only source that the rest of us might have for ideas and knowledge on what we should do. I understand if you guys can’t share all of it, but anything helps. I personally don’t know anyone to go to that I can trust for a redesign. Thanks again for sharing Greg/Blake.
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Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
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