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Old 10-10-2018, 01:47 AM
Blown353 Blown353 is online now
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Default SOLD: ARP 1/2" long wheel studs for C5 hubs, #100-7731

SOLD 10/15

Item Location (City/State): Lodi, CA

Price: $100 shipped

Description:

I have 2 sets of ARP 100-7731 1/2"-20 x 2.675" long wheel studs for C5 hubs for sale. One pack was opened to measure the knurl diameter & length and the flange diameter & height, but were not installed. The other package is still sealed.

Asking $100 shipped for both sets. Please PM for contact. Payment via paypal or USPS MO. Thanks!
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__________________
1969 Chevelle
Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
In progress: TT LS2, T56 Magnum, watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.

Last edited by Blown353; 10-15-2018 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 10-10-2018, 07:54 PM
randy randy is offline
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These say c5. I thought there wasn’t studs for a c6?
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Old 10-10-2018, 11:49 PM
Blown353 Blown353 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randy View Post
These say c5. I thought there wasn’t studs for a c6?
Depends on the hubs and where you use them.

They will fit standard C5/C6 hubs with no issues, but if you run the heavy duty ZR1 SKF hubs they're not a simple drop in. The head of the studs will come very close to the OD of the SKF hub housing and you should grind a small flat spot on the stud flanges for more clearance.

If you run these on the rear hubs and also have a C6 e-brake setup, you'll need to grind another small flat spot on the outside of the stud to clear the e-brake actuator.

Not sure why ARP made the flanges on these studs so much larger than the factory 12mm studs.

Instead of modifying these studs to fit my SKF hubs and C6 e-brake I'm going to use the 100-7723 Mustang studs which have a smaller flange OD that clears the hub body and also have a flat spot already ground on them that clears the e-brake actuator, but you then have to open the stud holes in the hub to 0.609" for the mustang studs.
__________________
1969 Chevelle
Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
In progress: TT LS2, T56 Magnum, watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.

Last edited by Blown353; 10-13-2018 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 10-11-2018, 07:58 PM
RdHuggr68 RdHuggr68 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blown353 View Post
Depends on the hubs and where you use them.

They will fit standard C5/C6 hubs with no issues, but if you run the heavy duty ZR1 SKF hubs they're not a simple drop in. The head of the studs will come very close to the OD of the SKF hub housing and you should grind a small flat spot on the stud flanges for more clearance.

If you run these on the rear hubs and also have a C6 e-brake setup, you'll need to grind another small flat spot on the outside of the stud to clear the e-brake actuator.

Not sure why ARP made the flanges on these studs so much larger than the factory 12mm studs.

Instead of modifying these studs to fit my SKF hubs and C6 e-brake I'm going to use the 100-7729 Mustang studs which have a smaller flange OD that clears the hub body and also have a flat spot already ground on them that clears the e-brake actuator, but you then have to open the stud holes in the hub to 0.609" for the mustang studs.
I looked up the 100-7729 ARP number and they are for a Subaru/Scion. The 100-7722 has a knurl diameter of.550 1/2"x 20 compared to stock studs knurl diameter is .509 . Are you staying with 12MM studs?
  #5  
Old 10-13-2018, 11:13 PM
Blown353 Blown353 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RdHuggr68 View Post
I looked up the 100-7729 ARP number and they are for a Subaru/Scion. The 100-7722 has a knurl diameter of.550 1/2"x 20 compared to stock studs knurl diameter is .509 . Are you staying with 12MM studs?
Whoops, typo. I meant the 100-7723 studs. They're 1/2-20, 3.1" UHL, 0.615" knurl diameter, and have a flat spot ground on one side of the flange that will clear the C6 e-brake actuator if you clock the flat spot correctly when installing them. The flanges are also smaller in OD than the 100-7731's so they clear the SKF hub body.
__________________
1969 Chevelle
Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
In progress: TT LS2, T56 Magnum, watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.
  #6  
Old 10-14-2018, 09:16 AM
RdHuggr68 RdHuggr68 is offline
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I am installing the 100-7722 on my C6 hubs which have to be altered to accept the .550 knurl diameter and have Moroso screw in studs on the rear. Since I use open lug nuts not thrilled about black in the back and gold up front. I need to do some research to find matching set of gold or black.
  #7  
Old 10-15-2018, 12:31 AM
Blown353 Blown353 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RdHuggr68 View Post
I am installing the 100-7722 on my C6 hubs which have to be altered to accept the .550 knurl diameter and have Moroso screw in studs on the rear. Since I use open lug nuts not thrilled about black in the back and gold up front. I need to do some research to find matching set of gold or black.
LOL, you sound as picky as I am on stupid little things. When I bought my ATS spindles years ago I bought them with ARP 1/2-20 studs, and the studs on one hub have a more rounded nose and the studs on the other side have a more squared off nose. Bugs the hell out of me, but nobody else ever seems to notice.
__________________
1969 Chevelle
Old setup: Procharged/intercooled/EFI 353 SBC, TKO, ATS/SPC/Global West suspension, C6 brakes & hydroboost.
In progress: TT LS2, T56 Magnum, watts link, Wilwood Aero6/4 brakes, vaporworx, floater 9" rear, etc.
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