Hi,
I'm currently putting together an engine for a european Opel Kadett (stateside I belive it was called Chevrolet Chevette?)
It's a pretty small car, especially compared to american muscle cars. It's just over 4 meters long and have for example a wheelsbase of 2,4m or 94".
Looks like this at the moment:
https://i.imgur.com/VG428zj.jpg
The engine for this will, due to registration regulations, be a 230hp 3.7l Audi V8. This engine has the oilpan at the front which means that it will collide with both steering and front crossmember. Due to this I have opted for a dry sump system to get the engine as low as possible.
I have already made one sump, which I'm not very happy with (it twisted badly during welding despite being bolted down to keep it flat) and I'm now looking to redo this, and hopefully improve it.
The question at hand is, how flat can I actually make it, with it still working?
As seen on this picture, I have enough clearance inside the block to put a flat sheet at the bottom.
The dry sump pump is an oversized Autoverdi unit from the Nascar series, due to space limitations I will rebuild it to a 5-stage unit, the scavage stages are all 35mm or 1,377" and the idea was to use two stages for the sump and one for each of the heads (mated to the crankcase ventilation outlets on the valve covers), or alternativly one for both heads and three for the sump.
I'm hoping some of you have more experience at this than I do and can help me with the sump pan design a bit. The outlets will be pointing towards the passengerside of the car. Could I in theory just weld in a square profile somewhere between the middle and the right side of the engine and weld on the AN bungs? Say a 30x30mm profile (1,2"x1,2").
If that's a bad idea, how wide should I make the sump) Full width of the block? Two thirds? One third? How important is it the have a windage tray in this type of application? Or am I good to go with just putting some mesh over the "sump" or atleast over the outlet fittings to get debries out of the pump?
In practice I will probably make something of a V- shape, or L-shape might be more correct, and weld that to the 5mm sheetmetal piece.