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  #11  
Old 10-29-2015, 09:03 AM
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Vega$69 Vega$69 is offline
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For the autometer tach to work you will to install a step up resistor and will set the dip switches to 4 cylinder 2 pulse.
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  #12  
Old 10-31-2015, 02:56 PM
cjsgarage cjsgarage is offline
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LS engines output a 4 cylinder pulse on the Tach, as mentioned above. So set your tach as if it were reading signal from a 4 cylinder.

the Tachometer gauge itself might have a ground, but do no ground the white wire.



always install the Engine Coolant Temperature sender in the driver head (The two wire one that goes to the computer). If you don't you're going to have to move all your timing and fueling tables up a few notches.. the passenger head port is in the back of the head (the driver's side is in the front--closest to the radiator side) and the few degrees different DOES make a difference.


The reverse lockout can be controlled by the PCM in most instances. I have not had good luck getting the brake wire to control it. It's been finicky, and the wire has come off a few times.. the brake pedal just moves around a lot, I guess.
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  #13  
Old 10-31-2015, 04:32 PM
randy randy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjsgarage View Post
LS engines output a 4 cylinder pulse on the Tach, as mentioned above. So set your tach as if it were reading signal from a 4 cylinder.

the Tachometer gauge itself might have a ground, but do no ground the white wire.



always install the Engine Coolant Temperature sender in the driver head (The two wire one that goes to the computer). If you don't you're going to have to move all your timing and fueling tables up a few notches.. the passenger head port is in the back of the head (the driver's side is in the front--closest to the radiator side) and the few degrees different DOES make a difference.


The reverse lockout can be controlled by the PCM in most instances. I have not had good luck getting the brake wire to control it. It's been finicky, and the wire has come off a few times.. the brake pedal just moves around a lot, I guess.
Coolant temp gauge is simple. already have the wiring diagram for that and part number.

Reverse lockout i just bought the samoco unit.
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  #14  
Old 10-31-2015, 04:37 PM
randy randy is offline
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Updated notes

Hook the vss output wire ( brown ) from the ecm bulkhead to the speedometer signal wire
- Hook the tach ( white ) from the ecm bulkhead to the gauge tach signal wire
- Hook the Oil pressure ( Tan/white ) from the ecm bulkhead to the gauges signal wire
- For the water temperature, there is a port located on the right side (passenger side) of the engine, in the cylinder head, past the last exhaust port (closest to the firewall / flywheel). There is a plug threaded in this location, that can be removed. This threaded in plug will either require an 8mm Allen Wrench, or a T52 Torx bit. There will be no noticeable difference in temperature reading when using the shorter sender. The 2277 adapter requires a 3/4" wrench, and the 2259 sender requires a 12mm wrench. Be careful to only tighten the adapter into the head until the crush washer is flattened. Do not over tighten.
- for the voltmeter just hook up the ignition wire from the gauge harness to the gauge
- Samoco reverse lockout solenoid is order. http://www.wirebarn.com/T56--TR6060-...ule_p_470.html
- The dse wiper is going to run into the harness also. Thats why i removed the factory wiper wires. I already have the dse wiper motor.
-Maybe I'm just overthinking it? Does this sound right or I'm i screwing something up?

So far i removed the lt blue wiper wire ( wiper high speed ) dk blue wiper wire ( washer pump ), black ground wire ( wiper low speed ), white wire ( washer and high speed wiper ), purple wire ( vss signal ), Yellow ( vss ground ), orange wire ( Heater blower ), dk blue ( oil pressure ), White wire ( tach ), wires from the engine bulkhead connector

That leaves me with 5 wires :

- starter Red wire - Goes to the Battery lead on the starter solenoid. Runs from the bulkhead connector to brown connector. Seems like i can just ignore the brown wire and connect it directly the red wire. Run the same color red wire from the back of the alternator to the starter which goes on the same stud as the red bulkhead connector wire. This same spot that i run this wire the battery also connects on here. Battery gives the system 12v but once the car starts the alternator then feeds all of this

- ecm Red wire - Didn't use this wire in the engine harness but still in the bulkhead since the power source and ecm are inside the car. This is the battery feed wire. I can prob run it off of the studs on the gmpp pole or to the firewall bulkhead connector. Is this the feed wire for the ecm power or a 12v input from the ecu output to feed the cars 12v constant source? sounds like its the feed wire for the ecm but if I'm connecting the gmpp fuse box directly to the battery bulkhead this wire shouldn't be needed right?

- Starter pink wire - This wire would get routed to the ballast resistor which the other end of the ballast resistor would connect to a distributor ( which i don't have ) and then the R side of the starter solenoid. Would i just run this wire to the starter solenoid? Is this then my ignition output for my entire car?

- ecm Pink wire - didn't use this wire in the engine harness but still in the bulkhead since the ecm and power feed are inside the car. Is this the ignition feed in for the ecu or ignition feed out from the ecu for the cars ignition system?

- Purple wire - ran to the S part on the starter solenoid. This is prob the output from the ignition to complete the starter circuit to engage the starter solenoid to start the car.

Extra info.
My battery bulkhead is on the passenger floor board
To supply my ecm with battery power I'm going to run my power wire from my bulkhead connector to the ecm which is beside each other.
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  #15  
Old 10-31-2015, 04:42 PM
randy randy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vega$69 View Post
For the autometer tach to work you will to install a step up resistor and will set the dip switches to 4 cylinder 2 pulse.
http://www.autometer.com/media/2650-1563.pdf

Listed are the most common ways to hook up a tachometer signal wire to the most popular applications that tend to have an existing tachometer signal:
• 98 F Body: Pin #35 of the blue PCM connector.
• 99-02 F Body: Pin #10 of the red PCM connector.
• LS equipped truck applications: Pin #10 of the red or green PCM connector (it will be either red or green, it will not have both). Not all trucks will have a tach signal wire.
• 97-98 Corvette: Pin #35 of the blue PCM connector, white wire. • 99-04 Corvette: Pin #10 of the red PCM connector, white wire.
• 05-06 Corvette: Pin #48 of the blue PCM connector, white wire. • 07-09 Corvette: Pin #48 of the black PCM connector, white wire. • 04 GTO: Pin #10 of the green PCM connector, brown wire.
• 05-06 GTO: Pin #48 of the blue PCM connector, brown wire.
• 05 Cadillac CTS 5.7L: Pin #10 of the green PCM connector, white wire.
• 06-07 Cadillac CTS 6.0L: Pin #25 of the blue PCM connector, white wire.
All of the above will require the tachometer to be set for 4 cylinder, 2 pulse signal. If the tachometer fails to operate, there are several ways to handle this. Each
case may be a little different.
If the tachometer does not function:
You may check the original tachometer circuit. You can do this with a digital voltmeter.
• Connect the positive lead of the voltmeter to the tachometer signal from the PCM.
• Connect the negative lead of the voltmeter to a good chassis ground.
• With your meter set on DC volts, start the engine.
• Monitorwhatyouhaveatidle.Youshouldhavealowfigureth atrangesanywhere from 0.5 to 3.0 volts (and remains rather steady).
• At a high-raised idle, it should be significantly more. As an example, if
you measured 1.0v at idle then at a raised engine speed you may see 3v, or more.
• There is no “spec” for the amount of volts you will see. What you are looking for is an increase. For example: If you saw 1.0v and idle, then measured 1.1v with raised engine speed, then that signal is not changing, or operating normally.
• If there is little to no activity, you may use a resistor to try and restore the weak signal. Installing the resistor: Use a 10K, 1/2 watt resistor (supplied in the LS Installation Kit). Solder one leg of the resistor to the tachometer signal circuit. Solder the other leg of the resistor to a 5v reference circuit.You may use a wiring diagram that pertains to your engine computer to determine what pin #, and wire color will be a 5v reference. *Hint: GM most commonly tends to use a solid gray wire for 5v reference, however you will still want to verify this with your wiring diagram, and a voltmeter set to DC volts. Do NOT use a 12 volt power supply or source for this. This may cause damage to the PCM.
10 7
Tachometer
If the PCM supplied tachometer circuit functions, but the tachometer does not: Take normal steps in diagnosing the tachometer. You may also try the tachometer on another vehicle. If it works on another vehicle, but not on your LS engine, then check the date code of the tachometer. Some older units (manufactured prior to 2007) may require a 5v calibration. All newer Auto Meter tachometers should not require this modification. Autogage tachometers may or may not function and CAN NOT be modified for 5v calibration.
If the PCM supplied tachometer circuit does not function, and you have already tried the pull-up resistor:: This will then require using a tachometer adapter. This is not uncommon when the computer (PCM/ECM) has been re-programmed or flashed. Some LS applications may have no wire for tachometer signal, or the computer may simply produce no tachometer signal. In this case a 9117 tach adapter will be required. The following details the steps required to install the 9117 on an LS engine.
Most commonly with original, and aftermarket engine wiring harnesses, the ignition coil power supply wire color is pink. Any applications using the adapter will be calibrated to 8 cylinder, 4 pulse.
Cut the pink power supply wire at each bank, prior to the coils splitting. This pink wire can be cut just prior to the wiring connector at the center of each valve cover.
• The cut halves coming from the harness (not the halves going to the coils) will still have power when the key is on. Join the left and right bank power halves together. Splice these two power halves (now together) to the solid red of the 9117 adapter.
8
• Now, join the coil-side cut halves together (left and right bank).
• Splice these two coil halves (now together) to the red wire with a green stripe
of the 9117 adapter.
• Ground the black wire of the adapter to an engine ground.
• Thegraywireoftheadapterwillbeyournewtachometersign al.Youdonot
want to try to “cheat” and use just one bank of coils, as the signal will appear
very erratic.
If the tachometer now functions well, but quits when above “x”-amount of RPM such as 4,000, then a shunt resistor will be needed. This is a 0.1 ohm, 3 watt resistor. Connect one leg of the resistor to the red adapter wire, and the second leg of the resistor to the red/grn adapter wire. This will allow some of the current to bypass the adapter, and still allow the tachometer adapter to function.
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  #16  
Old 10-31-2015, 06:26 PM
cjsgarage cjsgarage is offline
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Randy.. that's a ton of info.. and it's correct.. but you should just be able to hook the white wire up and set your tach to 4 cylinder mode. If you can't set it to 4 cylinder mode, we can work out a way to make it work.


The remaining 5 wires need to be hooked up as follows:

2 reds to battery constant voltage.

2 pinks wires are FROM ignition switch KEY ON power TO the ends of the pink wires

Purple is indeed the start wire. It goes from the small lug on the starter to the START function of the ignition switch. FROM ignition switch START to the end of the purple wire..
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  #17  
Old 11-01-2015, 11:46 AM
alongfortheride alongfortheride is offline
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Sounds like your working the bugs out.
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  #18  
Old 11-14-2015, 05:00 PM
randy randy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjsgarage View Post


The remaining 5 wires need to be hooked up as follows:

2 reds to battery constant voltage.

2 pinks wires are FROM ignition switch KEY ON power TO the ends of the pink wires

Purple is indeed the start wire. It goes from the small lug on the starter to the START function of the ignition switch. FROM ignition switch START to the end of the purple wire..


NOW This is where I'm at. I will update the front light harness in alittle. Headlights, turn signals, and horn wires are all good

Last edited by randy; 11-15-2015 at 01:02 AM.
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  #19  
Old 11-20-2015, 10:21 PM
randy randy is offline
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Quote:
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NOW This is where I'm at. I will update the front light harness in alittle. Headlights, turn signals, and horn wires are all good

Anyone?

1. Red Wires states battery for ecm - Should be a constant so since I'm running the gmpp kit which ill connect directly to the lug coming from the battery this isn't needed correct?

2. Pink wire for ecm - Instead of running this to the outside bulkhead connector should i just unplug it from the female version of the bulkhead connector and run this line inside the car to the gmpp kit? What is everyone else doing for the ignition source of the gmpp kit?

3. Pink wire for bat location on the coil - What should i do with this? remove it from the engine harness of the AAW kit? Possible use this in the future for a accessory ignition source?

4. reverse light wires from the AAW kit - I think its a ignition ( pink ) and LT Green wire. Just run these wires to the right side of the t56 switch? How did you route this wire? Just make a hole in the tunnel?
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  #20  
Old 11-22-2015, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randy View Post
Anyone?

1. Red Wires states battery for ecm - Should be a constant so since I'm running the gmpp kit which ill connect directly to the lug coming from the battery this isn't needed correct? Correct

2. Pink wire for ecm - Instead of running this to the outside bulkhead connector should i just unplug it from the female version of the bulkhead connector and run this line inside the car to the gmpp kit? What is everyone else doing for the ignition source of the gmpp kit? Any switched 12V works. I would pick it up inside the car if that's where your ECU is

3. Pink wire for bat location on the coil - What should i do with this? remove it from the engine harness of the AAW kit? Possible use this in the future for a accessory ignition source? Yes and Yes

4. reverse light wires from the AAW kit - I think its a ignition ( pink ) and LT Green wire. Just run these wires to the right side of the t56 switch? How did you route this wire? Just make a hole in the tunnel?That works
Here you go
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