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  #431  
Old 03-17-2015, 12:20 PM
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Last two look very good - keep going!


When I haven't welded for a while - I don't go straight to work on the parts I'm making -- I sit down with some scraps and get the beads going for a few minutes... then when it feels right I go to work.
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  #432  
Old 03-17-2015, 12:32 PM
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Personally I think your choice of 1/16th tungsten is too small for the job you're working on - I'd be using 3/32nd... with the same size filler material. Your HAZ (heat affected zone) is pretty wide - and that's due to slow travel speeds (typical of "newbs"). That's not a disrespectful name btw.
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  #433  
Old 03-17-2015, 02:56 PM
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I figured this one out the hard way a couple years back when I was self-teaching. I now keep a set of gloves that I only use for TIG welding.

Tank looks good though!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab View Post
Since im here I want to share an experience I had today while doing some aluminum work. I was welding along, and about 3 mins or so into the bead the filler would start collecting onto the tungsten. Getting sucked up is all I can describe it. Its also strange that this did not happen when I was doing my practice runs. About 30 mins on scrap. Note that this has never happened to me without accidentaly getting the tung in the puddle.

Turned down the gas, adjusting it for more cleaning helped but as soon as things heated up i would start up.

Check out the picture, you can see the blow back spots.

So im going back and forth and I noticed that if I wiped my rod down with
acetone it would stop doing it for a longer period.

While texting I inedvertenly swapped my welding gloves and the problem never came back. Turn out when I was fitting the weld bung for the filler cap lubricant from the o-ring saturated the index finger on my glove. As the rod got hot and my finger got closer to the puddle it would release more contaminants. Bam blow back.

Moral of the story keep your gloves, equip and rod clean when going ball deep.
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  #434  
Old 03-17-2015, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregWeld View Post
Personally I think your choice of 1/16th tungsten is too small for the job you're working on - I'd be using 3/32nd... with the same size filler material. Your HAZ (heat affected zone) is pretty wide - and that's due to slow travel speeds (typical of "newbs"). That's not a disrespectful name btw.
I thought the same thing, but decided to give it a try. That was going off the Miller welding app suggested sizes and settings. I do think I will switch back to 3/32 electrode on the remaining sides. Still gotta figure out how to get into the tight angle to weld it. Any suggestions?

I have been tig welding off and on for about 12 yrs now, but only do it at home on my own stuff and some side odd and ends.
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  #435  
Old 07-17-2018, 11:03 AM
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Default Welding 1045 threaded adapters to 1020 DOM

I'm getting ready to weld some 1045 threaded adapters to 1.25od x .120wall 1020 DOM and have seen many say that you should use a lower tensile strength filler material like ER70-S2. In light of the application, I would think that ER70-S6 would be a better choice. I have both in MIG and TIG. These are for some suspension links. Any suggestions from some of you more learned welders out there?
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  #436  
Old 07-17-2018, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rixtrix1 View Post
I'm getting ready to weld some 1045 threaded adapters to 1.25od x .120wall 1020 DOM and have seen many say that you should use a lower tensile strength filler material like ER70-S2. In light of the application, I would think that ER70-S6 would be a better choice. I have both in MIG and TIG. These are for some suspension links. Any suggestions from some of you more learned welders out there?

I sure a welding wizard will cut me off at the pass but I have used ER70-s2 in situations like this with no issue. I think it has more to do with prep and proper welding technique.
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  #437  
Old 07-18-2018, 04:24 PM
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OKAY, Okay, okay.., please pardon my rant..,

1. The only difference between ER70S2 and ER70S6 is alloy. ER70S6 has a bit more Manganese and Silicon, plus a few tramp allows.
2. Regarding these two filler materials, they have almost identical tensile strengths, hence the "70" in the number, which stands for guaranteed "ultimate tensile strength", not "yield strength". What's my point? It's personal preference.., I prefer ER70S2 simply because it provides a better silicon "puddle bounce" when I weld.
3. Use pure argon when TIG welding, 15scfm +15/-0, (depending on application like back purging).
4. Please use ONLY American made tungsten and when TIG welding steel.., please use 2% thoriated tungsten which is marked by a red marking on the end.
Grind your point to a sharp tip and do so axially with your grinder, not radially, so as to avoid "break" points if you stick your tungsten.
5. Prep is EVERYTHING. Period.
6. Prep is best by sanding or scotchbrite. If you sandblast first, you must either then sand, scotchbrite, or fail.
7. Practice first on scrap. When you think you are ready, practice one more time..,
8. Control your current. Most people worry about "heat affected zone" which is the blued discoloration around the weld on the parent material. What I have learned the hard way is use plenty of current.., burn it in deep.., that is if you want strength!
9. I repeat myself..,
PREP is everything.., Keep it CLEAN.
10. Please reply.., I want to help..,
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  #438  
Old 07-18-2018, 04:34 PM
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OOPS..,
Please use 3/32" tungsten 2% thoriated.
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  #439  
Old 07-18-2018, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 572Camaro View Post
OOPS..,
Please use 3/32" tungsten 2% thoriated.
I only have 2% lanthenated right now, but I work next door to a welding supply shop and get a discount through work. Furick gas lense and clear cup works fantastic.
Space cadet on the tensile strength vs alloy numbers. I do have some lower strength I've used on body work as it's easier to hammerweld or grind. Perhaps the lower alloy creates a better bridge between the other steels.
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Last edited by rixtrix1; 07-18-2018 at 07:28 PM.
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  #440  
Old 02-11-2019, 05:08 PM
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I decided I needed to come back and read this, and watch some videos.

Will be practicing on 18-20 gauge sheet metal scraps. I want to work on my Torino cowl after I learn from my mistakes, it won't be seen but I want to do a good job. I've already repaired some of it with MIG.

I was just at the local welding supply to get argon (92CF). He reccomended, and I bought.

*70S-6 filler 1/16X36 here pounds.
* 2% cerriated tungsten in 1/16 and 3/32, I bought one of each.

My family gave me the HTP-221 for Christmas, and it has an assortment of gas lenses, none of which are clear. It has a 17 torch and the standard lenses, etc.

The question is did I buy the correct supplies to get started burning coupons?

Thanks!
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