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  #41  
Old 09-24-2019, 11:35 PM
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I agree, use a heat gun to check the t stat housing or a manual gauge instead of the sender. You may have a bad gauge or sender.
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  #42  
Old 09-25-2019, 12:05 AM
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I always drill a couple 1/8" holes in the thermostat to let any air out of the block (if the thermostat doesn't already have them). I fill the engine with a funnel through the upper radiator hose (disconnected at the radiator). Once it won't take any more water I attach the hose to the radiator and finish filling the radiator through the cap.

It's critical to fill the block correctly, and the bleed holes in the thermostat work wonders to remove any air. It sounds like you have an air pocket at the thermostat; the thermostat won't open, and the engine temp will spike but the radiator stays cool because the thermostat is closed.
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  #43  
Old 09-25-2019, 12:28 AM
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Disconnect the upper radiator hose and back fill the block. Air is trapped on the backside of the thermostat and won't open. Air temp in the system always reads higher than water temp.
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  #44  
Old 10-04-2019, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camcojb View Post
I always drill a couple 1/8" holes in the thermostat to let any air out of the block (if the thermostat doesn't already have them). I fill the engine with a funnel through the upper radiator hose (disconnected at the radiator). Once it won't take any more water I attach the hose to the radiator and finish filling the radiator through the cap.

It's critical to fill the block correctly, and the bleed holes in the thermostat work wonders to remove any air. It sounds like you have an air pocket at the thermostat; the thermostat won't open, and the engine temp will spike but the radiator stays cool because the thermostat is closed.
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Originally Posted by Musclerodz View Post
Disconnect the upper radiator hose and back fill the block. Air is trapped on the backside of the thermostat and won't open. Air temp in the system always reads higher than water temp.
Did you get this figured out?
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Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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  #45  
Old 10-04-2019, 09:03 PM
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Had to go out of town for business. Nothing yet so I'm gonna try replacing the water pump. Also, sent the computer back to the tuner since the fans were cutting on too late. I'll keep everyone updated once I get this done.
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  #46  
Old 10-04-2019, 09:57 PM
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Try filling it the way outlined, with bleed holes in the thermostat. I doubt it's a bad pump unless it's leaking.
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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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