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  #11  
Old 08-07-2009, 09:29 AM
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My '69 Firebird is not a rare car. It's only a 4-speed air car. At first I wanted to go back original and maybe upgrade the heads, carb, etc. But as time has gone by the vision in my mind has change over and over many times. It's difficult with so many options out there. At the moment mini tubs, a 4-link, and putting the original engine aside is part of my vision. I bought my Firebird when I was 15 years old (and that was 27+ years ago). I figured that I should build it the way I want since I have no plans on selling it.

The main issue at the moment is getting the body work properly corrected (with all rust eliminated) and to get a very straight car.

Is there an inner structure in the roof that would hold rust? What is everyone's thoughts on my top part of the window (see photo)

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  #12  
Old 08-07-2009, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron Fox View Post
I am having my car built. I am a rookie when it comes to cars but I have been reading, watching tv, going to shows and talking to everyone about the correct way or ways to restore a car (with mods). I finally realized that there are so many different ways to build a car (color, mods, details, wheels,etc.) that sometimes it is difficult to choose a direction.

I have heard some people say to keep all the original metal on a car if all possible.

ItDoRun, did you use a butt weld on your patches?

Mrfixit, you mentioned to check the roof carefully. Please explain more.

Are the Full Quarters difficult to line up? Has anyone had problems?

I am also putting in a new full floor. I could patch it but I think it will look cleaner and I will be happy once it is in.

Thanks everyone for the information. This site and everyone in here makes a world of difference.
Yes, we used butt welds on the original patch panels. Please note that I'm not saying you can't patch it and make it look right. A lot of people do. I just think the full quarters eliminate the potential for those areas to reveal themselves later on.

My 68 quarters fit really good. I also helped with the installation of some 69 quarters from Classic Industries and they fit really good as well. Remember you may get two panels that will eat your lunch. Each panel will have it's own areas of concern. Maybe I've been lucky so far.

How much area of the floor will you need to patch? I removed and installed the full floor in about 16 hours by myself (other than having someone help me put it through the windshield and set it in place) including prepping and shooting epoxy primer on the top side. Once again, my floor fit like a glove and I wouldn't even consider a patch panel unless it was a really small area. It's super nice when you lay under the car and see it.

And redfire is right, the quarters are spot welded under the roof skin and will take some time to remove and prep for the new quarter.

Check out my build photos in the link on my signature. I've got plenty of pictures for reference. Mine's a 68, but it's the same basic process.

Chris
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1968 Camaro: DSE tubs and sub frame connectors, Chassisworks G-Link rear suspension, Speedtech upper and lower control arms, Chicane front coilover conversion with QA1's, Baer brakes, 18" Forgeline SO3's, Vintage Air, 6.0L LS 417 rwhp, 4L65E, Moser 12 Bolt w/3.73's....
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2391864

Build Thread: https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=19253
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  #13  
Old 08-08-2009, 09:21 AM
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I also say go full quarters, on my project I replaced one side with a full qtr and the other side with an 80% panel and in the end, I have spent more time and effort on the 80% side. The full qtr is a little more work up front but much better in the end!
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  #14  
Old 08-10-2009, 01:39 AM
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I agree with you Chris that full quarters eliminates any future problems and I am sure I will go that rought on the drivers side but a little voice keeps saying "keep all the original metal intact." I wonder what the percentage of problems have occured with quarter patch panels?

Chris, great build photos. It's amazing to see how you guys take a car down to bare bones and make them look brand new. I like the idea of going to bare bones because it gives an opportunity to get rid of all the rust in deep, difficult area's.

I see you used a full quarter on the drivers side but not on the passenger side. Why?

With my floor the drivers side is the worst (I left the window cracked on hot days). The passenger side is not bad. (See Photos) Both sides could be patched but I do not want any visual signs of patch panels from underneath. I know most people are not going to get on there hands and knees to look under the car but I will know its there. (crazy huh?). Also, I am thinking about painting the underneath of the car Gold.

Was your floor worse than mine?

Thanks everyone.
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  #15  
Old 08-10-2009, 08:02 AM
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There is a NOS passenger side full quarter panel on Ebay. How can you tell if it is a real NOS piece? Would it be worth buying or would Classic Industries full quarter be the best way to go?

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  #16  
Old 08-10-2009, 08:18 AM
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What about that drivers side rocker? If it's rusted that bad on the outside and in the wheel well I bet the inner rocker is swiss cheese as well! What does the shop that is building the car recommend?
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  #17  
Old 08-10-2009, 11:13 AM
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I actually found an individual who works out of his house and has a nice size shop. It took me almost two years to find someone I could trust and that has experience to back it up. I did my homework on him while looking into around 8 or so references he gave me.

We have studied the car a few times and deceided to go with a full floor and full trunk. Both quarters will need work. He wants to go with a full quarter on the drivers side and patch the passenger side. Both outside rockers will need to be changed. I can see the inner rocker on the drivers side and it seems to look good inside.

I still have issues with the doors and both fenders that I have not mentiones yet. I will start a new thread on both of these. I am sure everyone will say to re-skin both doors. The fenders will need to be patched also.

Any comments about the NOS Full Quarter on Ebay?

Thanks.
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  #18  
Old 08-10-2009, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Fox View Post
I agree with you Chris that full quarters eliminates any future problems and I am sure I will go that rought on the drivers side but a little voice keeps saying "keep all the original metal intact." I wonder what the percentage of problems have occured with quarter patch panels?

Chris, great build photos. It's amazing to see how you guys take a car down to bare bones and make them look brand new. I like the idea of going to bare bones because it gives an opportunity to get rid of all the rust in deep, difficult area's.

I see you used a full quarter on the drivers side but not on the passenger side. Why?

With my floor the drivers side is the worst (I left the window cracked on hot days). The passenger side is not bad. (See Photos) Both sides could be patched but I do not want any visual signs of patch panels from underneath. I know most people are not going to get on there hands and knees to look under the car but I will know its there. (crazy huh?). Also, I am thinking about painting the underneath of the car Gold.

Was your floor worse than mine?

Thanks everyone.
I originally patched the sail panel area on the passenger side and then decided to remove it after I saw what the body man had done to it. To make a long story short, he was taking way too long, so i pulled the car from him and decided to do things myself. Boy, am I glad I did after seeing the patch job on the sail panel. I'm currently in the process of replacing that full quarter. I should have it welded in within the next week or so.

As far as the floor goes, mine was in much better shape than yours, and I still replaced the entire piece. I, like you, didn't want any visual weld seams.

Sounds to me like you'll be replacing the full quarters and full floor! Now, just take the plunge and do it. You won't regret it.
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1968 Camaro: DSE tubs and sub frame connectors, Chassisworks G-Link rear suspension, Speedtech upper and lower control arms, Chicane front coilover conversion with QA1's, Baer brakes, 18" Forgeline SO3's, Vintage Air, 6.0L LS 417 rwhp, 4L65E, Moser 12 Bolt w/3.73's....
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2391864

Build Thread: https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=19253
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  #19  
Old 08-10-2009, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Fox View Post
I actually found an individual who works out of his house and has a nice size shop. It took me almost two years to find someone I could trust and that has experience to back it up. I did my homework on him while looking into around 8 or so references he gave me.

We have studied the car a few times and deceided to go with a full floor and full trunk. Both quarters will need work. He wants to go with a full quarter on the drivers side and patch the passenger side. Both outside rockers will need to be changed. I can see the inner rocker on the drivers side and it seems to look good inside.

I still have issues with the doors and both fenders that I have not mentiones yet. I will start a new thread on both of these. I am sure everyone will say to re-skin both doors. The fenders will need to be patched also.

Any comments about the NOS Full Quarter on Ebay?

Thanks.
I wouldn't bother buying a NOS panel. You'll pay way too much for it and it will still need some work to make it fit. Buy the reproduction piece and use the extra money elsewhere on your car. That's just my opinion.
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1968 Camaro: DSE tubs and sub frame connectors, Chassisworks G-Link rear suspension, Speedtech upper and lower control arms, Chicane front coilover conversion with QA1's, Baer brakes, 18" Forgeline SO3's, Vintage Air, 6.0L LS 417 rwhp, 4L65E, Moser 12 Bolt w/3.73's....
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2391864

Build Thread: https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=19253
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  #20  
Old 08-10-2009, 01:06 PM
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Chris, what color are you painting the underside of your car?
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