what makes the best black paint - Lateral-g Forums

kovert · #1 07-30-2008, 02:34 PM

ive heard a few difarent things when spraying black...

there is base coat clearcoat

ive hears use single stage give a better result

ive hears also single stage then sand and clear over the single stage

and ive heard single stage and last 2 coats dump clear in it

what are your guys experiance ive never seen it any other way than single or bc/cc what do you guys think gives the nicest paint?

best paint ive seen is that 69 camaro fesler built recently and i have no idea what they did ?

GM Muscle · #2 07-30-2008, 04:00 PM

im going to say that i prefer just straight bc/cc i usually just use 360grams of 805J jet black toner 340grams of binder and 250grams of balancer per quart, all chromabase.

3-4 coats of base. followed with 2-3 coats of clear, 600 wetsand, then 2 more coats of clear. turns out pretty deep for me. prep is pretty much the key to any quality paint job. the straighter it is, the better black is going to look.

fesler · #3 07-30-2008, 05:58 PM

Metal work complete car first this is the most important part, what you start with will show all the way to the end of this process

Spray polyester 2 times to fill all the small holes

Primed and blocked 4 times to get it perfectly straight

We use base coat clear coat on all our cars with

3 coats of base
4 coats of clear

Sand with 1000, 1500, 2000 grit wet

buff

This is what it will look like

NovaBlue71 · #4 07-30-2008, 07:02 PM

What you really need to do is get with a painter or paint supplier and see what black's are offered in the paint line of your choice. There are a few different shades of black's some black's will look almost yellow compared to some. Look for a black that has some blue shade to it. Glasurit has a #1250 deep black that is nice and rich looking.But all the paint companies have alot to chose from.If you have done your body prep and bodywork right there should be no reason to poly-prime twice and block four times.Find the right guy to work on your car and you should be able to poly prime and block twice and be where you need to be . Also don't waste your time sanding with #1000 on your first cut or it still will have some urethane wave when you look down the side of car. I think you can get away with it if you do a flow coat which has been 400/600 and recleared.Just my 2-cents Joe.

porkchop · #5 07-30-2008, 07:20 PM

Chris that car is killer! Best black paint job I've ever seen.

rwhite692 · #6 07-30-2008, 10:51 PM

Hey Joe can you elaborate on what you mean by "urethane wave"? I've always done the 1000/1500/2000 cutting...are you talking about waves caused by wetsanding with 1000, ie what some of us refer to as getting "finger marks"? If that's what you mean then yes I understand..Thanks -Rob

NovaBlue71 · #7 07-31-2008, 05:56 PM

Rob,urethane wave is the flutter or cellulite look when you sight down a panel. It alot times looks like ripply bodywork. If you have sprayed any of the high solids european clear's you'll see what I'm talking about.1000,1500,2000 has been good rule of thumb on what works on most clears but with the european stuff you really need to step up with something coarser if you want to cut it crisp and flat.Hope that clear's up any questions you had. see ya Joe.

rwhite692 · #8 07-31-2008, 07:33 PM

Thanks Joe my experience has been mostly limited to DuPont and PPG clears; I have not tried the Euro clears like Akzo/Sikkens, BASF/Glasurit but I have heard that they are significantly harder, so what you are saying makes sense. When you are using these clears, are you cutting them starting at like 800? ...And I would appreciate your opinion on which of the Euro clears you have had good experience with. -Rob

kovert · #9 07-31-2008, 08:17 PM

this is good info thanks guys .... fesler what brand paint is used on that camaro ???? ppg?

ive shot ppg dupont and the shop i work at now uses diamont / basf .. its nice stuff ive allso heard debears is is a real nice aswell

and si if its a harder clear to cut and buff does this euro clear more durable or les likely to get fine scratches after buffing???? last car i shot black i used trans something and it scratched real easy

fesler · #10 08-03-2008, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NovaBlue71

If you have done your body prep and bodywork right there should be no reason to poly-prime twice and block four times.Find the right guy to work on your car and you should be able to poly prime and block twice and be where you need to be . Also don't waste your time sanding with #1000 on your first cut or it still will have some urethane wave when you look down the side of car. I think you can get away with it if you do a flow coat which has been 400/600 and recleared.Just my 2-cents Joe.

That may be IYO but you cant go wrong with preping the car right. Look at our paint work and you will see why we do what we do. The finish project looks deep and on black that is what you want. IMO this is one of the best black paint jobs I have seen and my painter has been painting for over 30 years now so he knows what he is doing and I would never question work that looks like this. Every painter has a different way of doing things.