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  #21  
Old 08-10-2009, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ItDoRun View Post
I wouldn't bother buying a NOS panel. You'll pay way too much for it and it will still need some work to make it fit. Buy the reproduction piece and use the extra money elsewhere on your car. That's just my opinion.
He wants $749.00 for the Full Quarter but says "will deal" and gives his email address.

Classic Industries has the Full Quarter for $349.00 or $399.00-I can't remember which.
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  #22  
Old 08-10-2009, 02:48 PM
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Chris, what color are you painting the underside of your car?
Low gloss/semi gloss black.
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1968 Camaro: DSE tubs and sub frame connectors, Chassisworks G-Link rear suspension, Speedtech upper and lower control arms, Chicane front coilover conversion with QA1's, Baer brakes, 18" Forgeline SO3's, Vintage Air, 6.0L LS 417 rwhp, 4L65E, Moser 12 Bolt w/3.73's....
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  #23  
Old 08-10-2009, 02:51 PM
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He wants $749.00 for the Full Quarter but says "will deal" and gives his email address.

Classic Industries has the Full Quarter for $349.00 or $399.00-I can't remember which.
At $749, I would question if it's really a true GM quarter. I would expect that quarter to be in the $1200-$1500 range if it was an OEM piece, but who knows. If it is a true GM quarter, that seems like a killer deal.
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1968 Camaro: DSE tubs and sub frame connectors, Chassisworks G-Link rear suspension, Speedtech upper and lower control arms, Chicane front coilover conversion with QA1's, Baer brakes, 18" Forgeline SO3's, Vintage Air, 6.0L LS 417 rwhp, 4L65E, Moser 12 Bolt w/3.73's....
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2391864

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  #24  
Old 08-11-2009, 02:02 PM
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Low gloss/semi gloss black.
Don't mean to sway from my original question about full quarters but what do you think about painting the underneath the same color as the body? Would it be too risky and too difficult to clean?

What other underside hard materials could be paint body color?

Thanks.
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  #25  
Old 08-11-2009, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ItDoRun View Post
At $749, I would question if it's really a true GM quarter. I would expect that quarter to be in the $1200-$1500 range if it was an OEM piece, but who knows. If it is a true GM quarter, that seems like a killer deal.
I agree that this NOS piece should be higher. I would not want to take a chance. Classic Industries seems to have a great full quarter that GM has its hands on.

Do you know of any other companies with good full quarters with the sail, etc? (Year One)

Thanks.
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  #26  
Old 08-11-2009, 03:18 PM
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I agree that this NOS piece should be higher. I would not want to take a chance. Classic Industries seems to have a great full quarter that GM has its hands on.

Do you know of any other companies with good full quarters with the sail, etc? (Year One)

Thanks.
I used CPU Muscle Car Parts.
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1968 Camaro: DSE tubs and sub frame connectors, Chassisworks G-Link rear suspension, Speedtech upper and lower control arms, Chicane front coilover conversion with QA1's, Baer brakes, 18" Forgeline SO3's, Vintage Air, 6.0L LS 417 rwhp, 4L65E, Moser 12 Bolt w/3.73's....
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2391864

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  #27  
Old 08-11-2009, 04:18 PM
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What about that drivers side rocker? If it's rusted that bad on the outside and in the wheel well I bet the inner rocker is swiss cheese as well! What does the shop that is building the car recommend?
X2!

If your doing outer rocker and full floor, you might as well do inner rockers as they collect water and debris and rot from the inside out. I ended up cutting the floor away from the inner rocker and replacing the inner and outer rockers as an assembly. After that, I cut away the remaining floor to make way for the one-piece replacement. Of course, adequate bracing needs to be in place. Fun stuff!
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  #28  
Old 08-11-2009, 09:12 PM
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X2!

If your doing outer rocker and full floor, you might as well do inner rockers as they collect water and debris and rot from the inside out. I ended up cutting the floor away from the inner rocker and replacing the inner and outer rockers as an assembly. After that, I cut away the remaining floor to make way for the one-piece replacement. Of course, adequate bracing needs to be in place. Fun stuff!
That would probably be the smart thing to do.

New full floor, full trunk, full quarters, both inner and outer rockers, new trunk lid and not to mention the other area's of the car (door skins, etc.) and I will end up with all brand new metal. I just hope in the long run everything lines up straight with decent gaps.

Thanks Ron.
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  #29  
Old 08-12-2009, 04:59 AM
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That would probably be the smart thing to do.

New full floor, full trunk, full quarters, both inner and outer rockers, new trunk lid and not to mention the other area's of the car (door skins, etc.) and I will end up with all brand new metal. I just hope in the long run everything lines up straight with decent gaps.

Thanks Ron.

That's where I'm at. The more you dig, the more you find. It takes alot of fitting before final welding. I think the only external original metal on my car will be the a-pillars...LOL.
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  #30  
Old 08-12-2009, 08:57 AM
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That's where I'm at. The more you dig, the more you find. It takes alot of fitting before final welding. I think the only external original metal on my car will be the a-pillars...LOL.
I was hoping to keep more original matal intact but I know in the long run and many years down the road I will be happy I made the right choice.

I guess I should start a new thread for my doors and one for my fenders.

Thanks.
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