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02-20-2019, 10:32 AM
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Senior Member
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Been neglecting this thread, have made a bunch of small progress with the trim, buffing, rolling and pulling the front fenders an inch or so.
Apparently I thought I had more room between the bleed screw and the floor boards than I actually do. But the good news is that when you have some minimal tools you can build about anything so I whipped this up, its a chopped down 7/16" socket welded to some 1/8" flat bar and it worked amazing.
Had the neighbor come over and give me a hand for 30 mins or so got fluid in the clutch and got it bled. Actually bled out pretty easy too. Open, push pedal down close, did that about 10 times, refilled master 3 or 4 times and then pump and pump and pump, we got the air worked out of it in short order and had a functional clutch. This setup works really well so far. Quiet operation too.
Aside from a few bolts I need to swap on the rear suspension that puts me about buttoned up underneath the car. Adjusted the suspension down to see where this thing is going to sit. I have more room to go but I had to see it on the ground for the first time all assembled.
I just dont hate this view either.
only thing left to add is coolant at this point, brakes are bled, clutch is bled and functional, waiting for Tailights from Sweden and can start working on the grille and headlights now.
Gottta locate an e38 manual ECU and can start tuning on it
Sean
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02-21-2019, 09:25 AM
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Pin Stripe
After seeing how well the engine compartment turned out I'm kinda hoping you paint the whole car... I get the patina thing, I do, but I just think...
anyway... can you at least buff off the pin stripe? Please?
I mean you kept the dog barf brown carpet...
__________________
Ty Ingle, USAF Retired
FREEDOMBIRD Hoodpins.com, Inland Empire Driveline, Billet Accessories Direct, Modo Innovations, AutoRad Radiators, Morris Classic Concepts, Marquez Design, Anvil Auto, Fesler Billet, US Collision (DOOM), AGR, Pro-touringF-body.com, Phoenix Transmission Products, Shiftworks, ACC Carpet, Hedman Hedders, BMR Fabrication, American Autowire, MityMounts, TIN INDIAN Performance, Kauffman Racing Equipment, Pypes, RobbMc Performance, WMC, Holley, NOS, PST
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02-24-2019, 10:28 PM
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLDFLM
After seeing how well the engine compartment turned out I'm kinda hoping you paint the whole car... I get the patina thing, I do, but I just think...
anyway... can you at least buff off the pin stripe? Please?
I mean you kept the dog barf brown carpet...
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Thanks man, Its not about the patina at all, its about not being afraid to take the car out, park in a parking lot, do donuts, go on the track and beat the snot out of it. I have had cars with nice paint jobs and I am always afraid to use them. Shouldnt be a problem with this **** box =)
Carpet has totally grown on me now, no chance of it coming out now.
Might buff the stripe off as I have plans for some cool vinyl work on the car.
No time last week to really work on the car or get parts, ran and got some stuff Saturday morning and worked on a cleaner way to route the vacuum from the throttle body over to the brake booster. Little bit of 1/2" stainless tubing and some 3/4" and came up with this. My tig welding isnt good and its taking a lot of ****ing up but a few of these are ok.
Scott at STS got a new bad ass 3d printer and whipped these up for me to test it out the new machine, turned out killer.
Not sure which one is going to go on but its a super subtle look.
Got the intercooler setup all filled up with water wetter, antifreeze and distilled water and got it all bled. Got the cooling system all filled up by pulling the upper radiator hose and the steam line, filled the engine and the radiator, ran the engine till operating temps and bled the air out and git it back in one piece. Then I pulled it out of the shop for the first time on its own fully functioning.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/pERt9uM4hyg" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Interior looks pretty killer out in the daylight.
Going to work on headlights, grille and hood in the next few weeks.
Cheers to a runner!!!
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02-25-2019, 06:31 AM
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It moves!
Nice little touch on the brake booster vacuum line. That really cleans up and gives a professional look to the engine bay.
Nice job on the badges, but I'm the guy that doesn't like to advertise. In my humble opinion a car like this is perfect without badges. You've done a lot to keep it simple on the exterior and it looks great. There will be enough curious looks with the ride height and wheels which could lead them to noticing the cage, etc. If your area is anything like mine I highly doubt you'll be able to get gas without someone starting a conversation.
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I build my own junk...
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02-25-2019, 08:13 AM
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Lateral-g Supporting Member
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Really great attention to details. This has been one of my favorite builds on here.
David
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02-25-2019, 10:44 AM
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Lateral-g Supporting Member
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I love unique builds like this.
Great job!
__________________
Shawn
Dum Spiro Spero - "While I Breathe, I Hope."
"One Test is Worth 1,000 Expert Opinions"
The Riehle Axiom
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02-25-2019, 02:08 PM
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Moderator
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Just stupendous!
Those logos are pretty sweet but I tend to agree with the great sleeper them you are executing so well.
What are the dimensions of those logos? Can't tell ...
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2004 NASA AIX Mustang LS2 #14
1964 Lincoln Continental
2014 4 tap Keezer
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02-25-2019, 04:16 PM
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Looking better and better every time you post an update, now all we need is more vroom vroom! What’s the story with the wheels that are on it? I know they won’t fit my kids wagon but why won’t they work for what you’re doing?
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02-26-2019, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gofastwclass
It moves!
Nice little touch on the brake booster vacuum line. That really cleans up and gives a professional look to the engine bay.
Nice job on the badges, but I'm the guy that doesn't like to advertise. In my humble opinion a car like this is perfect without badges. You've done a lot to keep it simple on the exterior and it looks great. There will be enough curious looks with the ride height and wheels which could lead them to noticing the cage, etc. If your area is anything like mine I highly doubt you'll be able to get gas without someone starting a conversation.
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Thank you and yeah I am shooting for the clean yet serviceable engine bay. I am sure it would be easier if I had a camaro or a mustang......
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1970RT
Really great attention to details. This has been one of my favorite builds on here.
David
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Thanks man, it doesnt hold a candle to most of these builds on here but its pretty fun.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sls1025
I love unique builds like this.
Great job!
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Much appreciated.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash68
Just stupendous!
Those logos are pretty sweet but I tend to agree with the great sleeper them you are executing so well.
What are the dimensions of those logos? Can't tell ...
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Thanks man,
So here is the deal with the badges on the rear of the car. The paint got damaged under the factory badges, it looks like the paint got eaten from the chemicals in the tape I hit it with a tiny bit of 1500 and buffed it and you can clearly see the DL coming through.
I would much rather have it just clean and no badges. There is some cool that I can deal with like the FORD on the tailgate of the old truck just looked cool, this just looks kind of ****ty without an emblem back there.
The badges are in the exact font , size and profile of the stock DL Badge.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DBasher
Looking better and better every time you post an update, now all we need is more vroom vroom! What’s the story with the wheels that are on it? I know they won’t fit my kids wagon but why won’t they work for what you’re doing?
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Its getting there, thanks for the encouragement my friend.
Well, the rear axle in this is 1" per side wider than the stock rearend. I have .75" slip on spacers on the rear which is totally fine, however the front is a whole different story. I have a 1.5" spacer on the front and an additional .25" spacer and it still isnt longer than the studs. So in order to make the fronts work I would need at least a 1.80" spacer or more. I dont really want to cut down the threads on the wheel studs.
They are totally the wrong offset. If we get a ways down the road and I am getting antsy, I will order up some proper front wheel spacers and go from there.
Sean
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02-26-2019, 03:39 PM
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Senior Member
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I vote for the "LS" emblem in the "DL" spot then...
__________________
Ty Ingle, USAF Retired
FREEDOMBIRD Hoodpins.com, Inland Empire Driveline, Billet Accessories Direct, Modo Innovations, AutoRad Radiators, Morris Classic Concepts, Marquez Design, Anvil Auto, Fesler Billet, US Collision (DOOM), AGR, Pro-touringF-body.com, Phoenix Transmission Products, Shiftworks, ACC Carpet, Hedman Hedders, BMR Fabrication, American Autowire, MityMounts, TIN INDIAN Performance, Kauffman Racing Equipment, Pypes, RobbMc Performance, WMC, Holley, NOS, PST
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