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  #221  
Old 12-09-2022, 09:32 AM
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CJD Automotive CJD Automotive is offline
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I'm looking through pics and trying post this is some kind of order. I guess I'll start from the front.
I added a few braces to the down bars in the engine compartment. I built brackets to install a removable spreader bar just above the motor plate. I keyed it so it couldn't rotate, as I needed a place to mount the fuel pressure regulator:





I also made a removable brace on each side from the frame rail to coil over mount. I need it removable to pull the headers out:













To attach the motor plate, I needed a bracket from the frame rail on the passenger side, and from the down bar on the drivers. I wanted to make a bracket the plate could rest on. Made this for the passenger side:





The driver side was a little trickier because the bar curves back:











A front motor plate requires a mid plate. Normally these are 1/4" aluminum or 1/8" steel. The Quicktime block saver plate that comes with the bell is 1/8" steel, so just added "ears" to that:



With a front and mid plate, the trans mount needs to be rubber. If not, it will crack the case. I already had the drivetrain locked down at the angle I wanted, so grabbed a Viper mount and made a trans mount. I am a huge fan of poster board templates and use them on almost everything I make:










My plan was always to run a water to air intercooler. With the turbos at the back of the engine and real estate up front for an air to air unavailable, seemed like the best option. To keep the plumbing short, and not intrude too much into the passenger compartment, I wanted the intercooler in the cowl. First things first, need to connect my intake elbow to the Hellcat 92mm DBW throttle body. I need to push it back slightly to clear the dual fuel rails/lines. I found a company that made a billet adaptor to use the Hellcat TB on different engines. I ask them could they just make it without machining the adaptor holes. They did, and also made me the adaptor on the elbow. So all I needed to do was connect the two with an aluminum tube section:







Added a Wiggins clamp to the throttle body to attach to the intercooler:



I sized the intercooler cores I needed and then made a cardboard mockup to see how it would fit. I'm using two 1000 HP cores. More cooling is always better:









Once I found a good place for it where the connections wouldn't interfere with the surroundings, and I could remove it pretty easily, it was time to have it made. I've designed this to be removable from inside the car so you don't have to pull the engine! The plate I have on the outlet is a bulkhead plate that will bolt to the firewall. It's there to seal the intercooler inside from the engine compartment:







The intercooler is attached at the bottom to the tunnel and the top at the cowl:



Once I had it's location nailed down, I could start making the inlet plumbing. I'm using a Wiggins at the core and at the turbo discharge:



As I said earlier, the intercooler is separated from the engine compartment. The turbo discharge plumbing needs to come through the firewall to connect to the intercooler. I found these stainless/silicone pipe grommets that are water tight and rated at 500 degrees. This will let the pipes pass through and allow some movement:

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CJD Automotive, LLC

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"I own a Mopar, so I already know it won't be in stock, won't ship tomorrow, and won't actually fit without modification."

Last edited by CJD Automotive; 12-13-2022 at 09:55 AM.
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  #222  
Old 12-12-2022, 08:42 AM
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On to the trans tunnel.
Most of you know Mopars are torsion bar cars. They have a torsion bar crossmember that runs from rocker to rocker. It's about an 1/8" thick and provides a lot of the bodies torsional rigidity. My car utilizes the stock floor, and is basically stock bodied except for subframe connectors and a grafted on front/rear subframe (It would have been SOOO much easier to build a tube frame chassis and just set the body on!).
To install a T56 size transmission requires cutting a section of this crossmember out in the middle. I wanted to tie the crossmember back together with the same strength, and needed to be able to slide the largest diameter of the trans through it. I ended up building this piece after trying lots of different cardboard template:







I then realized I had a problem. I build the rear of the tunnel much earlier so I could build and install the seat structure. I kept it low because I wanted a console. When I ran the seat bar over the driveshaft, I stayed at the same height as the tunnel:



This would have been fine, except that with the motor/mid plate, I cannot tilt the engine down to remove the trans. The transmission needs to slide straight back far enough to get the input shaft out of the clutch.
After measuring how far I needed to go back, I raised the seat bar enough to allow the trans to slide through it that distance (with the shifter removed). I then had to cut back into the previous tunnel that amount and a make a removable section that could also seal off fire/smoke. The lower bolts on this panel would be inaccessible with the seats in place, so they bolt in from the underside.





With that panel done, I laid out how I wanted the tunnel.

I built the pieces that attached to the floor that also attach the removal cover for the shifter. I flanged everything as a fire stop and will seal everything with fire tape:



Then I started on the removable shifter section:







I added some baffles underneath to attach and seal the Nomex shift boot.





I made the front of the tunnel section that will connect to the firewall, but needed one more access panel to service the shift rod, reverse cable, and gear position sensor:





Not sure what the metal composition of the factory sheet metal is, but TIG welding was a no-go. Mig it is.





So this is a weird step down tunnel! My console is flush with the last step, so it transitions into the shifter panel level. The side cutout's on the shifter panel become the E-brake lever and sway bar adjuster pockets.
The drop down from the front section will probably get cup holders. This whole thing will be covered in removable upholstery.

And just because you made it this far, here's a couple of renderings of the outside. Not exact, but close enough to build panels and work from, which is what I'm doing now:









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CJD Automotive, LLC

www.CJDAUTOMOTIVE.com

"I own a Mopar, so I already know it won't be in stock, won't ship tomorrow, and won't actually fit without modification."

Last edited by CJD Automotive; 12-12-2022 at 12:20 PM.
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  #223  
Old 12-12-2022, 10:15 AM
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That car is sooo cool!!
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Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
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  #224  
Old 12-13-2022, 08:35 AM
ScotI ScotI is offline
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Agreed! So cool & love the logic/needs driven fab work. That rendering is freakin' sharp.
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  #225  
Old 12-13-2022, 09:34 AM
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Well, you are making me want to build another crazy car after watching this build.
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  #226  
Old 12-15-2022, 02:51 PM
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Just wow. Holy wow!
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70 velle' on custom chassis w/custom RideTech coilovers, RED sleeved 434” with Mamo 265’s, F-body Magnum, 12 bolt 3:73, wilwood 6/4's, bla, bla, bla...build. thread https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=39631
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  #227  
Old 12-17-2022, 06:01 PM
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That rendering is great motivation. So hot, too.
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