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  #21  
Old 06-01-2010, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Mkelcy View Post
All great advice. Also, instead of relocating the upper control arm mounting holes (the Guldstrand mod), you can use either tall spindles (not drop tall spindles) or tall ball joints.
This is one area that I haven't determined what to do with yet. I was looking at changing my drum - YES I have drum brakes in the front - to Vette Gen 5/6 stuff using a Kore kit but I need to do some more research to see if it will work with my spindles or if I need to change them out anyway. Upgrading to the ATS tall is a good chunk of change and I don't know if I can go about it any other way There doesn't seem to be to many fans of the extended balljoints
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  #22  
Old 06-01-2010, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by AWDPete View Post
This is one area that I haven't determined what to do with yet. I was looking at changing my drum - YES I have drum brakes in the front - to Vette Gen 5/6 stuff using a Kore kit but I need to do some more research to see if it will work with my spindles or if I need to change them out anyway. Upgrading to the ATS tall is a good chunk of change and I don't know if I can go about it any other way There doesn't seem to be to many fans of the extended balljoints
Take a look at SC&C's website (http://www.scandc.com/index.htm) and talk to Marcus. If I didn't have the ATS spindles for my '67, I would be all over the SC&C setup.
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  #23  
Old 06-01-2010, 10:59 PM
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Hey Mike, I checked out the site and after looking at Kore3 brake setups it's getting pretty close in price. If I go with the Street-Comp Stage 2-Plus which uses my stock spindle and longer upper and lower BJ I need a more expensive brake kit because they need to use a new hub. If I go with the Street-Comp AFX I can use the less expensive brake kit because it already has the vette hub. So in the end the price difference between the two isn't that much, $320 and I don't have to trust my 30 year old spindle with it's small bearings. That was easy!

Now back to arms, I do like the adjustability of the SC arms, could be a help at the track to dial in the car - are they as strong as the non-adjustable arms, I don't know but I believe they are basically Nascar type arms. They are also quit a bit less money then the Hotchkis stuff. Am I paying for a name or a better product? Again, I don't know, that's why I'm asking the pros
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  #24  
Old 06-01-2010, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by XcYZ View Post
I'm running 3.70's. I'm pretty happy with that setup with a 26" tire.
Sweet, Thanks Scott
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  #25  
Old 06-01-2010, 11:18 PM
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holy cow Pete, your plans changed quite a bit from your first post. LOL


Maybe we should talk about your total budget first then go from there.


Also I hope you didn't think I was putting your BB down, im a BB guy from birth and had several BB SS cars early on, 68 427 Chevelle, 69 396 Nova 65 396 Chevelle 454 Monte Carlo and even have a 496 in my daily driver. Then it went to big cube small blocks 383, 391 ,406's. But man you just can't beat the HP and MPG numbers these aluminum cans put out, for less money.

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  #26  
Old 06-01-2010, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by AWDPete View Post
Now back to arms, I do like the adjustability of the SC arms, could be a help at the track to dial in the car - are they as strong as the non-adjustable arms, I don't know but I believe they are basically Nascar type arms. They are also quit a bit less money then the Hotchkis stuff. Am I paying for a name or a better product? Again, I don't know, that's why I'm asking the pros
For what it's worth, I'm using the SC&C (SPC) arms on my '67. I like the idea of eliminating the shim stack for things like the Hotchkis Chassis Max Handle Bars.
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  #27  
Old 06-02-2010, 01:53 AM
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i have removed my Global west arms (that look great, and are twice as heavy.. AND are alittle too long, so i needed 3/4 inches of shims to get the geometry right)

and i have installed the SC&C lightweight arms.... and can onmy recoment them... i got the screw in nascar type balljoints..

they are half price and atleast as good as the GW.. and the loads on the UCA arent that great anyway.. you can only put as much moad on them as the upper balljoint stud can transfer without shearing off.... (look at a C4 UCA and see how flimpsy they can be and still be safe for racing)
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  #28  
Old 06-02-2010, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab View Post
holy cow Pete, your plans changed quite a bit from your first post. LOL
I have no idea what you are talking about

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Maybe we should talk about your total budget first then go from there.
Well, I guess there are a couple of ways to look at this. I've owned the car since 1979 and have put about 300 miles on it. The last time it was driven was in 2000. My time frame may be a little different then most!

I'm not the kind of person that will spend large sums of money on a whim, I will educate myself and research it to death before I start spending money. That's where I am right now, research mode. I have a blank canvas in front of me and a goal:the car must be 1:competitive and 2:functional. Pretty doesn't figure into my goal with the possible exception of wheel choice but only after meeting goal 1 and 2. Do I need a new subframe to be competitive, I don't believe so. Will I need to upgrade my front suspension, yes but with what? Will I need to upgrade my 4-wheel drum brakes, yes but with what? What will meet my requirements 1 and 2 without "overkill" or "overspend" to get the job done? It's not so much about; I have $xxxxx to spend - what should I get? as it is; what do I need to do to get my car to meet requirements 1 and 2 and be "capable" of finishing in the top 5 to 10% of an Optima challenge suspension wise?

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Also I hope you didn't think I was putting your BB down, im a BB guy from birth and had several BB SS cars early on, 68 427 Chevelle, 69 396 Nova 65 396 Chevelle 454 Monte Carlo and even have a 496 in my daily driver. Then it went to big cube small blocks 383, 391 ,406's. But man you just can't beat the HP and MPG numbers these aluminum cans put out, for less money.

Vince
No worries and I agree, today's technology has drastically improved the breed!
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  #29  
Old 06-02-2010, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Mkelcy View Post
For what it's worth, I'm using the SC&C (SPC) arms on my '67. I like the idea of eliminating the shim stack for things like the Hotchkis Chassis Max Handle Bars.
Good point and something I hadn't thought about. The adjustable arms really do appear to have a lot of advantages, with a good price to boot!
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  #30  
Old 06-02-2010, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by deuce_454 View Post
i have removed my Global west arms (that look great, and are twice as heavy.. AND are a little too long, so i needed 3/4 inches of shims to get the geometry right)

and i have installed the SC&C lightweight arms.... and can only recomend them... i got the screw in nascar type balljoints..
Good information, Thanks for sharing. One thing that's not mentioned is the actual material used for the cross shaft - steel or alu and the bushing, are they delrin or? Tell me a little more about the screw-in balljoints advantages.

Quote:
they are half price and at least as good as the GW.. and the loads on the UCA aren't that great anyway.. you can only put as much load on them as the upper balljoint stud can transfer without shearing off.... (look at a C4 UCA and see how flimsy they can be and still be safe for racing)
Function over form, lighter weight and half the price - what's not to like
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