G-machine nova setup? - Page 3 - Lateral-g Forums

Mean 69 · #21 03-21-2006, 05:26 AM

If you plan on doing a full frame with sheet metal interior, etc, make certain that you do a well thought (as in seek professional advise) full cage for the car. A full frame by itself is not nearly as strong as a uni-body car with all of the funky little stampings, nooks, crannies, etc that the factory put in (ASSuming you run SFC's on the uni-body car, not trying to start a war here, merely stating the general case). Or rather, more specifically, the full frame car won't be as torsionally rigid in many cases. The point is, flat pieces of sheet metal are nowhere near as strong/stiff/rigid as the stamped pieces. If it were me, and the last ounce wasn't a big issue, I'd retain the stock floor pan. For a full on race car, well, that's completely different.

10" will help everything out just fine, thank you very much. You'll have room for the rack with the C5 front stuff without having to sacrifice steering, or requiring to lift the motor up (though there is another way to skin that cat, coming soon to a Lateral Dynamics front suspension system near you, just look for the car screaming by you on the road course, that'll be one of ours). Unfortunately, you don't just get to "bolt in" the C5 stuff and declare victory, but it is damn fine start (the spindle in particular) for designing a setup for our cars, they did a great job on getting the scrub radius WAY down which is important for the big tires we all want to run. If you are going to run turbos, the motor setback will really help weight distribution too, assuming you are going to hang the 'screws off of the front of the motor.

M

novanutcase · #22 03-21-2006, 11:47 PM

Mean!

Are you trying to saya that a full frame chassis will flex more than the OG uni with subs? Are you also trying to say that if you go full frame then for rigidity that is comparable to a uni you need to install a frame? Just wondering because i've been told different.

Matt@Lateral Dynamics · #23 03-22-2006, 01:07 AM

A full frame without an extensive cage has the potential to be much less rigid than the stock uni-body, is what Mark is getting at. And if it is as rigid, it's probably heavier.

race-rodz · #24 03-22-2006, 01:16 AM

i agree, a normal ladder frame chassis will twist a lot more than a sheetmetal uni-body, now if a true cage is engineered into the same ladder chassis, then if designed correctly, will be more rigid than the uni-body even with sfc's.

but, i would be willing to bet that the ladder chassis and cage with alum "tin" will weigh in about the same as the uni-body with sfc's and a minimal cage, now for a street car, i would lean hard towards replacing the floor pans and adding sfc's, unless cubic dollars arent an issue.

comparing it to the FFR chassis, it is designed basically as a place to install drivetrain/suspension, and hang a body.... without a roof to "truss" it all together. so in reality, this is like comparing apples, oranges and grapes.

i have a "ladder"frame/cage in my 34 ford RACE truck project, a 64 1/2 unibody/sfc STREET CAR mustang, and also a super EXOTIC full round tube chassis cobra with viper suspension, each of them was designed/modified for a specific purpose with what i thought the vehicle was realistically gonna be subjected to....each design has its pro's and con's, and it really just comes down to the best overall design that fits your specific needs and budget.

race-rodz · #25 03-22-2006, 01:17 AM

matt jumped in there while i was still reading....but you get the idea.

Mike Hall · #26 03-22-2006, 02:20 AM

So I should replace the floors? What about moving the engine back far enough to make room for twin turbos? What front subframe would I use? The rear frame rails on this car are set wide so They would have to be totaly removed to make room for 335's in the back. I am the type of person that will take advise and go with it so what should I do? The floors are sorta bad off as well as some of the firewall. The floors are easy to fix but there are no firewall parts out for this car. The rust is on the flat areas behind the fender so I guess I can just patch it.

I have yet to start work on the nova as I have to get my wifes 66 bronco finished up first. This will give me time to figure on what I should do with the nova. Lets here what You would do.

Mike

Mean 69 · #27 03-22-2006, 05:30 PM

It's hard to say a recipe for any particular car, they are all so individual by nature. I intend to build one in the future, but this will be the shop race car, and it'll have a full glass body. If I had a steel car, I'd probably replace the factory floor pans, and repair the rest of the rust as appropriate, you can smooth the firewall easily and the other areas too. I wouldn't personally go too wide on the rear tires, because the front tires will only be so big from a packaging aspect, and too big in the rear will hurt the ultimate cornering balance of the car. I think a 245/275 front to rear, maybe as high as a 295 rear is about right from a grip to aesthetics standpoint. If you move the motor back, that will better help the balance and the seemingly small-ish front tires will work better than one might think (r compound tires, please...).

There really isn't a good front setup that I have seen, at least from my own perspective, I am sure others will have their own opinions (it's what makes the world go around, and there's nothing wrong with that). It's a tough place to be in currently, but help is on the way in the future. For the rear, I am biased to the three link. Especially with a very high output motor, you need to be able to plant the tires firmly, and the setup needs to be strong, there really isn't a big downside to running one all things considered.

If you don't have an engine already, consider a turbo V6. Yes, really, you can save even more front end weight. If you are core, dry sump it, and drop the motor down as far as possible. Setting it back will become less important, but still a great idea anyway. I guess what I am getting at is if you want to build a real burner, a pre-68 Nova is the perfect candidate, and keeping it as light as possible is going to help EVERYTHING else out. It is the perfect candidate car for a super high performance buildup. I just wish the darned things weren't so expensive now!

Mark

novanutcase · #28 03-24-2006, 09:08 PM

Well...maybe not lies but...this is a new revaltion to me. So the general consensus is that for a pro-tour street machine I should keep the unibody, put a Due front clip w/C-5 components with sub frame connectors? Since I was going to do a full frame I was going to put an IRS in but if I'm going to keep the uni-body then an IRS will be to much of a PITA to do! Now, the car is going to sit REALLY low without help from air bags(See Doug Sinjems Car on this site!) so can this be accomplished with the uni-body?

**Sales@Dutchboys** · #29 03-24-2006, 10:04 PM

I think that it can be done without having to have a full frame under the car.....

race-rodz · #30 03-24-2006, 10:04 PM

i musta missed the part about this being a "box" nova.......... i thought we were talkin about 2nd gen.

with that being said, and budget is no issue..... i say look to parsons IImuch car for inspiration. i have had a couple early novas, and wasnt thrilled with the way the cars drove..... they feel like everything is flexing, steering sucks, and checking/changing plugs is a F.P.I.T.A.