...

Go Back   Lateral-g Forums > Technical Discussions > Man Caves
User Name
Password



Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #21  
Old 01-23-2014, 11:45 AM
DRJDVM's '69's Avatar
DRJDVM's '69 DRJDVM's '69 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Manteca, CA
Posts: 1,299
Thanks: 2
Thanked 48 Times in 26 Posts
Default

Another factor to consider is once its coated, how anal are you going to be about it looking perfect for the rest of its life?

I did a Home Depot DIY kit and it looked awesome for a year or so....it has some peeling and stains that wont come off now, but overall I'm still happy. I did it in white and it made a HUGE improvement in the overall brightness of the shop.....

Its doesn't look perfect anymore but its way better than a standard concrete slab

If you are going to be anal about it staying perfect forever...good luck....none of them will

Think of it like a car paint job.... get something decent and don't worry when it get rock chips and scratches in it when you beat the snot out of the car....or spend a fortune and worry about every last bug that hits the paint and lose sleep over a couple of rock chips.... your choice....
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 01-23-2014, 12:32 PM
jy211's Avatar
jy211 jy211 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Miami Florida
Posts: 1,242
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mitch_04 View Post
Garage Forums has a flooring section with a huge amount of information. Race Deck seems to be the best for a used-hard shop, but is very expensive. Epoxy seems to matter most on the condition of the concrete, tons of prep and a quality product go a long way.
You will have more people over there to just tell you to use the search function to look for what you want...I'll save you the post!
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 01-23-2014, 12:38 PM
Che70velle's Avatar
Che70velle Che70velle is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Dawsonville Georgia
Posts: 2,219
Thanks: 609
Thanked 157 Times in 109 Posts
Default

I have a good friend that is a dealer for the race deck stuff. He did his garage with it, and it looks great, but you can forget about rolling an engine hoist over it. The wheels sink in, and your stuck. The stuff is too soft.
__________________
Scott
---------------------------------------------------------------
70 velle' on custom chassis w/custom RideTech coilovers, RED sleeved 434” with Mamo 265’s, F-body Magnum, 12 bolt 3:73, wilwood 6/4's, bla, bla, bla...build. thread https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=39631
New 434” engine build here https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ved-block.html

Thanks Dad!!

My Chevelle is old school... It has a belt driven power steering pump.
They're 17's, but I keep em clean!
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 01-23-2014, 06:13 PM
Vince@Meanstreets's Avatar
Vince@Meanstreets Vince@Meanstreets is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bay Area, California
Posts: 5,465
Thanks: 13
Thanked 17 Times in 11 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Che70velle View Post
I have a good friend that is a dealer for the race deck stuff. He did his garage with it, and it looks great, but you can forget about rolling an engine hoist over it. The wheels sink in, and your stuck. The stuff is too soft.
Plus it's a pain to keep clean. Oil, fluids and dirt gets trapped in it.
__________________
MEANSTREETS PERFORMANCE

Dealer for
ACCUAIR rideheight control systems
ENTROPY RADIATORS XXX radiators for your pro-touring vehicle
FORGELINE MOTORSPORTS Highline custom 3 piece wheels
WEGNER AUTOMOTIVE Custom engines and LSX drive systems
SPEEDTECH PERFORMANCE Bay Area stocking dealer

NEVER FORGET -11
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 01-23-2014, 06:29 PM
rwhite692's Avatar
rwhite692 rwhite692 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Tracy, CA
Posts: 1,910
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I have Armstrong "Imperial Texture" VCT tile (The name is odd since it has no texture) in my 24x36 shop. It's been down for about 4 years now, I'm quite happy with it. Occasionally gets a weld burn on it but since the color runs through the whole 1/8" thickness, you can take a razor blade to it and scrape it off. It's pretty damn durable, more than I had expected (note how well it holds up to pallet jacks, etc next time you are at your local supermarket.) And it was very cheap, and easy to repair if I ever decide I want to replace any tiles. The pics shown are right after I put it down, I have not done anything to maintain it since, other than to mop once in a while, and it still looks pretty decent, after four years of complete neglect. I think I will move stuff around one of these days and give it a buff and polish, seeing these pics again reminds me of how nice VCT can look, when it's treated well, LOL.

I just couldn't see spending $3k on a high end 100% solids epoxy process like Wolverine, which is about the only type of epoxy system I'd go with, if I were to do epoxy. I think that the concrete polishing/staining/sealing process is another nice option. -Rob
Attached Images
     
__________________
______________________________________________
1969 Camaro/ Tom Nelson TT 434 / Wayne Due C5 / DSE QLink / and a bunch of other stuff...

Project update thread here:
https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=12743

My Lateral-G Page

My Shop Build:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=16310

Last edited by rwhite692; 01-23-2014 at 06:34 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 01-23-2014, 08:21 PM
MoparCar MoparCar is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Colorado
Posts: 245
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
Default

What did you have to do at the concrete joints? Did they have to be filled prior to the VCT?
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 01-23-2014, 09:27 PM
Revved's Avatar
Revved Revved is offline
Lateral-g Supporting Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: DFW
Posts: 532
Thanks: 4
Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rwhite692 View Post
I have Armstrong "Imperial Texture" VCT tile (The name is odd since it has no texture) in my 24x36 shop. It's been down for about 4 years now, I'm quite happy with it. Occasionally gets a weld burn on it but since the color runs through the whole 1/8" thickness, you can take a razor blade to it and scrape it off. It's pretty damn durable, more than I had expected (note how well it holds up to pallet jacks, etc next time you are at your local supermarket.) And it was very cheap, and easy to repair if I ever decide I want to replace any tiles. The pics shown are right after I put it down, I have not done anything to maintain it since, other than to mop once in a while, and it still looks pretty decent, after four years of complete neglect. I think I will move stuff around one of these days and give it a buff and polish, seeing these pics again reminds me of how nice VCT can look, when it's treated well, LOL.

I just couldn't see spending $3k on a high end 100% solids epoxy process like Wolverine, which is about the only type of epoxy system I'd go with, if I were to do epoxy. I think that the concrete polishing/staining/sealing process is another nice option. -Rob
That actually looks like it would work very well!
__________________
-Sean
Comp Performance Group
Business Development Manager

1970 Chevelle I built years back as a Lat-G Feature https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=43116
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 01-23-2014, 09:37 PM
Vegas69's Avatar
Vegas69 Vegas69 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,663
Thanks: 86
Thanked 210 Times in 119 Posts
Default

I have something very similar to the Armstrong tiles pictured in my detached garage and they are in terrible shape after about 10 years of service.
__________________
Todd
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 01-23-2014, 09:48 PM
Sieg's Avatar
Sieg Sieg is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Pacific Northwet
Posts: 7,896
Thanks: 33
Thanked 87 Times in 36 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vegas69 View Post
I have something very similar to the Armstrong tiles pictured in my detached garage and they are in terrible shape after about 10 years of service.
Chisel it off, spray adhesive remover, scrape with a razor scraper, clean again, rinse, burnish with aggressive pad, apply sealer and polish. It's as much fun as removing Dynamat.
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 01-24-2014, 11:03 AM
rwhite692's Avatar
rwhite692 rwhite692 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Tracy, CA
Posts: 1,910
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I think that most problems with VCT come from not sealing it well and then exposing it to moisture, whereby the moisture can intrude at the joints between and get under the tile and attack the adhesive. I definitely wouldn't recommend it for a daily driver type of garage where wet vehicles would be parked on it and expose it to standing water conditions, particularly if it is never maintained. As I mentioned you can see how well it does hold up in some pretty tough environments, when it is properly maintained. I think in terms of performance vs. cost, it is pretty tough to beat. I figure to clean and reseal mine every few years is probably adequate, as I don't obsess over its appearance, etc.
__________________
______________________________________________
1969 Camaro/ Tom Nelson TT 434 / Wayne Due C5 / DSE QLink / and a bunch of other stuff...

Project update thread here:
https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=12743

My Lateral-G Page

My Shop Build:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=16310
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:40 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net