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Old 01-29-2011, 09:48 PM
baggins baggins is offline
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Default Sanded engine bay to bare metal, what primer?

Like the title says the engine bay is down to bare metal and I am wondering what the best thing that comes in an aerosol can is to put on it and the fenderwells? Thanks Nick
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Old 01-29-2011, 10:20 PM
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elitecustombody elitecustombody is offline
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Why strip it all the way down to metal only to spray it with rattle can? Buy some epoxy primer if you don't want to deal with rust,paint peeling,chips,e.t.c. down the road
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Old 01-31-2011, 01:31 AM
baggins baggins is offline
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i was hoping to just do an aerosol can primer for now then do the entire car all together down the road, will the spray primer not seal it for now?
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Old 01-31-2011, 07:50 AM
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I use GBP 988 on small stuff,it's good product

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/pr...fm?product=988
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Stefan B. Do what's right,not what's easy!

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1998 Supra APU 6spd
2007 TBSS
1998 GS400TT widebody
1969 Firebird
1979 Firebird LS3,DSE,Baer
1938 Dodge LC pickup
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Old 02-06-2011, 03:21 AM
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cacwyo cacwyo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baggins View Post
i was hoping to just do an aerosol can primer for now then do the entire car all together down the road, will the spray primer not seal it for now?

Primers do not seal moisture out unless it is a type of epoxy primer, which in most cases will help seal out moisture but is not permanent as it will break down over time. I would recommend if your wanting to go a cheap route, just using a chassis black paint which is usually a epoxy formula.

But...keep in mind, the for the absolute "best" results, if you start with a bare area of metal, use an etch primer, then an epoxy then your top coat. So unless you want to re-sand everything 2 times, just spend the money to take care of it the first time around
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Old 02-22-2011, 08:35 PM
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Jon Clough Jon Clough is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cacwyo View Post
Primers do not seal moisture out unless it is a type of epoxy primer, which in most cases will help seal out moisture but is not permanent as it will break down over time. I would recommend if your wanting to go a cheap route, just using a chassis black paint which is usually a epoxy formula.

But...keep in mind, the for the absolute "best" results, if you start with a bare area of metal, use an etch primer, then an epoxy then your top coat. So unless you want to re-sand everything 2 times, just spend the money to take care of it the first time around
I second the use of an etch primer over bare steel, if you don't the paint may come off.
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Old 03-07-2011, 09:21 PM
64skylarkls1 64skylarkls1 is offline
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Default I second the need for rattle can help!

Does the etch primer require that all paint be removed before using it? I'm doing and LS swap and am in the middle of cleaning up the firewall and blocking off the heater opening. I'm thinking of smoothing the firewall too - sanding - a little body filler? So there will be some bare metal but not all.

Is the etching primer still the way to go? Is it sandable? What brands? What is the best final coat? I don't want gloss.

Thanks to all.
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Old 03-13-2011, 10:05 PM
TheCntrion TheCntrion is offline
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Doesn't por 15 have a satin black? You can brush that on and it seems not to look like you brushed it.
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Old 04-08-2011, 11:35 PM
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64impala 64impala is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCntrion View Post
Doesn't por 15 have a satin black? You can brush that on and it seems not to look like you brushed it.
I recommend KBS Rust Seal. Amazing product....but you must follow there prep process. Amazing on suspension parts, floor pans, ect.
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